Adarq.org

27-01-20

Left should is a little sore today. Hopefully feels better tomorrow.

I feel like (and I've definitely said this before) I need to do more work with one armed hangs/scapular strength stuff. Just hate doing this on my bar at home, since it's so thin it really hurts to hang on, so I like minimising the amount of one arm stuff I do on it. Hangs seem worse than OAC stuff, I guess because hte load moves aroudn less and the TUT is longer. Just gotta suck it up, and probably do some of this stuff as part of warmup at the climbing gym. Would go well toward my OAC work.

Anyway, going to take two days off (including today) -- pretty sore. Amazing to me that people climb like 5 days a week. Want to build up that sort of recovery capacity.

30-01-20

Shoulder again feeling a little better. Am optimistic that it'll fully recovery on its own, as long as I'm not stupid. Might leave off doing too much OAC stuff until I'm fully confident in that claim though. Perhaps isos or concentrics will be fine, but have to be v careful in lowering to full extension.

Surprisingly my lats are quite sore today! Yesterday's pullups were far from maximal, and not too much volume, so I'm a little confused by that! Would have thought they're adapted enough to not be sore from a light session given they're pretty similar to the movement in climbing, but I guess that palms away form is novel enough to induce some soreness. Wild. Guess I should make them my go-to pullup movement rather than chins going forward.

Serratus also sore. Shall stick with pushups -- seems like they can only be good for shoulder stability. Maybe I can nab a cheap weight vest somewhere -- would also be helpful for progressing ab wheel, if I ever get back to doing that consistently.

03-02-2020

Ring finger on right hand a little sore. Think it's either from a route I did that had some two-finger pockets, or some a move I kept trying that involved jumping out to quite a small hold with my right hand. Or a combo. Didn't hurt during the session, only felt it first at about bed time. I think that's hopefully a good sign that it's not too major and just sorts itself out in a few days. Also think it is a sign that I should be doing some open hand/3 fingers stuff in my hangboarding, and not just half crimp, just to get more adapted to that position + condition the ring finger in particular, since both of mine have been injury prone.

Biceps, lats, triceps and brachioradialis are mega sore today. That's what OAC eccentrics will do, I guess. Good sign, though, that I can do them pretty strognly without actually being all that adapted to them. Gains to be made by practicing them for sure.

06-02-20

Climbing

~2 hours

After 45 minutes or so took a break to do the following:

OAC negative
BW x RLRL, RL, RL

Felt a bit weaker than earlier this week, but fine with that as I think it'll take a bit for recovery to catch up + this was close to a big meal.

Back to climbing, finger feeling good. Could try hard stuff without pain and it felt like it was improving. Then disaster, dry fire off a hold right near planned end session with my right hand, majorly worsening the injury. Feels way worse, but very similar otherwise, to the right ring finger thing I had like a year ago or so. Sigh.

shit.

10-02-2020

Doing rehab for finger + shoulder prehab ()

15-02-20

Climbing

~2 hours

Phew! If I'm careful with my route selection I can basically avoid pain. Made a silly choice near the end and felt some pain, but it subsided quickly, so I'm feeling positive. Will see how everything is tomorrow -- possibly it was just being warm meant I couldn't feel pain, but I'm optimistic.

Did some OAC negatives/lock off @ 90/120* during the session, can hold those lock off for 5+ seconds now solidly, which is nice.