Adarq.org

31/12/2019

BW - 69.1

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1
-5 x 1 [from bottom on left, had to start with slightly bent arm on right]
-16 x 3, 3

Hangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 8s, 8s, 8s

Dips
BW x 5
+16 x 6, 6, 6

Planche Leans
BW x 10s, 10s

Notes

Solid workout. Right arm feels weaker coming out of the bottom on OAC, even if elsewhere strength feels very similar.

That's 2019 done. Not trained as consistently as I would have liked, but it's one of my better years probably. Getting injured sucked, though if that hadn't happened I probably would not be into climbing/so close on OAC, so I can't be too upset about it.

Lighter workout on chins/grip stuff than usual as I'm climbing Thursday.

Weight creeping up slowly. Been eating out a lot and having lots of big family meals, etc. Will try to arrest that, and maybe drift back towards 67.x, so that the cut to <65 isn't too big a thing when I make that move some time in the new year.

Happy New Year everyone!

02-01-2020

Climbing

~2 hours

Mostly trying hard stuff. Was with three friends -- two about my level (maybe a touch better, but we can all attempt similar routes), one a beginner. Really nice bouncing ideas about to try routes off each other/motivating each other to try hard. Never really trained in a group before, but these guys have a good mindset, so it's nice. Going again w/ them on Sunday.

Quite sore from Tuesday/Sunday. Every other day is pretty tough for climbing stuff. Glad to be getting two full rest days before next session -- hoping to be feeling v strong for it.

Did an partial rom OAC starting with arm @ about ~130 degrees on both arms.  [Was actually not quite full effort either, so I'm getting super close to having the skill on lock. Going to be hyped out of my mind when I get it. Will try to get footage. It's likely to happen in a climbing gym rather than at home, I think, since my bar is not very suitable.]

05-01-2020

Climbing

~2.5 hours

Spent mostly trying lots of hard stuff. Tore some skin on left ring finger, but not too bad. Still sore from the Sun/Tue/Thur burst of training, to be honest, so power wasn't really there. Was close-ish on a black (the tier above blue) route -- if I'm fully rested I think I might be able to manage it. Think I checked off another blue, and a few whites/wasps.

Need to work out how to balance OAC/strength training with climbing. Might alternate between 2 climbs / 1 lift and 1 climb / 2 lift weeks until I have the OAC? Anyway, I'm not sure I'll be able to put in a good effort at anything this week until maybe Wednesday (or possibly even Thursday, unless recovery rate picks up), so might only get 2 sessions in this week.

BW - 69.6

09/01/2020

Pullups
BW x 3, 3, 3

Super Wide Grip Arched Back Pullups
BW x 4, 4, 4, 4

Hangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
 
Repeaters
HC@18mm
BW x 2 x 6x(5 on/5 off) [last two "on" periods of second set a bit dodgy tbh]
3FD@18mm
BW x 6x(4 on/6 off) [don't like this grip as much for long/repeated holds, feel a bit more tweaky fwiw]

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 6, 6

KB OHP
16 x 6, 6

Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8

Notes

Mostly recovered from cold, but not 100%. Similarly still feeling a little sore/achey, so pulls/hangs wise did a different workout. The super wide grip pullups feel very specific to quite a few climbing movements, so I like those. Did them submaximally, which was a nice change of pace.

Think I will make repeaters the main form of hang training I do rather than more max hangs, just for a cycle or two, work up to being able to manage like 5x(7on/3off) @ 18mm.

Climbing Sunday, hopefully.

14/01/2020

Climbing

~2.5 hours

Nice sesh. Tried to stay off crimpy things/things that required a lot of weight on right finger, which I think was prudent. Finger slightly more sore at end of session than before it, but still less sore than it was yesterday or on Sunday, so that seems fine to me.

Obviously still quite fatigued from Sunday, and powered out quite quickly this sesh, but still gave a bunch of things a try.

Might train Friday (may not do any hangs if finger still feels tweaky), and then climb Sunday.

Edit: got a brachioradialis cramp during this sesh, which i've never had before. gnarly!

BW - 69.7

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1 [felt super easy]
-8 x 1
-3.75 x to 90* on right, 1 on left

ISO Hangs
120* x 5s, 3s

OAC Negative
Didn't time, but did RLRLRL with minimal rest between each rep

Assisted OAC
-8 x 1 + long hold @120* on the eccentric

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 7, 7
BW x 11

Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8, 8

Notes

Injured ring finger feels basically better, but I managed to get myself not to do any finger/grip training anyway, to really give it time.

Need to work strength in the bottom range of OAC I think, so I liked that last movement with the long hold at the weak point after a rep.

BW - 69.7

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1+1+1, 1+1+1, 1+1

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 7s, 7s
HC@21mm
BW x 7s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+10.5 x 5s

HC Repeaters
BW x 2 x 6x(3on6off)

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 8
+24 x 3
+8 x 10

Notes

Nice to have a strong feeling workout, feel like it's been a while.

Rep scheme for the OAC assisteds (i.e. 1+1)  is htis: 1+1+1 means RLRLRL, only rest being time to get set up for next rep, 1+1 just RLRL. I guess that's just cluster reps.

Finger still not quite 100%, but definitely feels like it's at the point where it would benefit from some proper loading, rather than just climbing. Thing hangboard is actually good for finger recovery once you're able to do it, since the loading is so controlled (you're not throwing or grabbing suddenly, like you can often be while climbing). Structure for this will be to work up to a moderate-hard 5s hang, then do repeaters after for volume.

Climbing w/ friends sunday, might try to fit in a solo climb on friday.