991
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 10, 2020, 10:14:15 am »
10-02-2020
Doing rehab for finger + shoulder prehab (
Doing rehab for finger + shoulder prehab (
)
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992
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 09, 2020, 06:15:33 am »
09-02-2020
Seen physio, am feeling a bit more mellow, reckon about 3-4 weeks until it's mostly recovered. Sadly it's basically exactly what I'd been planning to combat -- i.e. was going to train more 3 finger hangs, and what I've injured is basically a weakness caused by not enough 3 fingers hangs. Luckily the pain has subsided in other positions, so I think I'll be able to to OAC work still pretty soon. Still effing painful in lots of positions, though!
Seen physio, am feeling a bit more mellow, reckon about 3-4 weeks until it's mostly recovered. Sadly it's basically exactly what I'd been planning to combat -- i.e. was going to train more 3 finger hangs, and what I've injured is basically a weakness caused by not enough 3 fingers hangs. Luckily the pain has subsided in other positions, so I think I'll be able to to OAC work still pretty soon. Still effing painful in lots of positions, though!
993
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 07, 2020, 04:49:23 am »
Right hand is fucked up 
So annoyed about this, didn't really do anything wrong in the session, didn't push my climbing too hard, just had one unlucky slip at the end and made everything way worse.
On the up side, I have no soreness from yesterday's session, despite OAC negatives. However, given the state of my right hand I'm not sure when next I'll be able to hang from a pullup bar, let alone hang one handed on that hand...
So annoyed about this, didn't really do anything wrong in the session, didn't push my climbing too hard, just had one unlucky slip at the end and made everything way worse.
On the up side, I have no soreness from yesterday's session, despite OAC negatives. However, given the state of my right hand I'm not sure when next I'll be able to hang from a pullup bar, let alone hang one handed on that hand...
994
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 06, 2020, 11:29:59 am »
06-02-20
Climbing
~2 hours
After 45 minutes or so took a break to do the following:
OAC negative
BW x RLRL, RL, RL
Felt a bit weaker than earlier this week, but fine with that as I think it'll take a bit for recovery to catch up + this was close to a big meal.
Back to climbing, finger feeling good. Could try hard stuff without pain and it felt like it was improving. Then disaster, dry fire off a hold right near planned end session with my right hand, majorly worsening the injury. Feels way worse, but very similar otherwise, to the right ring finger thing I had like a year ago or so. Sigh.
Climbing
~2 hours
After 45 minutes or so took a break to do the following:
OAC negative
BW x RLRL, RL, RL
Felt a bit weaker than earlier this week, but fine with that as I think it'll take a bit for recovery to catch up + this was close to a big meal.
Back to climbing, finger feeling good. Could try hard stuff without pain and it felt like it was improving. Then disaster, dry fire off a hold right near planned end session with my right hand, majorly worsening the injury. Feels way worse, but very similar otherwise, to the right ring finger thing I had like a year ago or so. Sigh.
995
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 05, 2020, 05:09:14 pm »
05-02-20
Finger feels like 85% recovered, should be enough for a light climb + OAC training sesh tmrw. Frustrating to keep getting these little niggles, but hopefully they'll just clear up with more time spent climbing/adapting + some specific strength work.
My broad plan is a 6 week cycle 2xweek OAC negative work + maybe one other climbing sesh, then assess. Likely at that point I start a cut and aim to get to 65kg or lower
Finger feels like 85% recovered, should be enough for a light climb + OAC training sesh tmrw. Frustrating to keep getting these little niggles, but hopefully they'll just clear up with more time spent climbing/adapting + some specific strength work.
My broad plan is a 6 week cycle 2xweek OAC negative work + maybe one other climbing sesh, then assess. Likely at that point I start a cut and aim to get to 65kg or lower
996
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 03, 2020, 10:02:12 am »
03-02-2020
Ring finger on right hand a little sore. Think it's either from a route I did that had some two-finger pockets, or some a move I kept trying that involved jumping out to quite a small hold with my right hand. Or a combo. Didn't hurt during the session, only felt it first at about bed time. I think that's hopefully a good sign that it's not too major and just sorts itself out in a few days. Also think it is a sign that I should be doing some open hand/3 fingers stuff in my hangboarding, and not just half crimp, just to get more adapted to that position + condition the ring finger in particular, since both of mine have been injury prone.
Biceps, lats, triceps and brachioradialis are mega sore today. That's what OAC eccentrics will do, I guess. Good sign, though, that I can do them pretty strognly without actually being all that adapted to them. Gains to be made by practicing them for sure.
Ring finger on right hand a little sore. Think it's either from a route I did that had some two-finger pockets, or some a move I kept trying that involved jumping out to quite a small hold with my right hand. Or a combo. Didn't hurt during the session, only felt it first at about bed time. I think that's hopefully a good sign that it's not too major and just sorts itself out in a few days. Also think it is a sign that I should be doing some open hand/3 fingers stuff in my hangboarding, and not just half crimp, just to get more adapted to that position + condition the ring finger in particular, since both of mine have been injury prone.
Biceps, lats, triceps and brachioradialis are mega sore today. That's what OAC eccentrics will do, I guess. Good sign, though, that I can do them pretty strognly without actually being all that adapted to them. Gains to be made by practicing them for sure.
997
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 02, 2020, 12:31:52 pm »
02-02-2020
Climbing
~2 hours total
After ~45 mins (about when I was fully warmed up and had started trying harder routes) I popped the training room to do the following:
Eccentric OAC
BW x RLRL, RLRL, RL, RL
Then finished with climbing for the rest of the session.
Notes
OAC eccentrics felt strong. Just need to be doing them more regularly, maybe 2xweek. Didn't set up a timer for them or anything, but they were fully under control, bottom no quicker than top, etc., so that's good. Will try to progress them to doing like 4xRLRLRL, at which point I should be nice and strong.
Shoulder feels ok.
Climbing
~2 hours total
After ~45 mins (about when I was fully warmed up and had started trying harder routes) I popped the training room to do the following:
Eccentric OAC
BW x RLRL, RLRL, RL, RL
Then finished with climbing for the rest of the session.
Notes
OAC eccentrics felt strong. Just need to be doing them more regularly, maybe 2xweek. Didn't set up a timer for them or anything, but they were fully under control, bottom no quicker than top, etc., so that's good. Will try to progress them to doing like 4xRLRLRL, at which point I should be nice and strong.
Shoulder feels ok.
998
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: a fast and explosive donkey!
« on: February 02, 2020, 12:29:11 pm »- pull up x 6,6,5
decided to start adding reps to the first set, then second, then third, then back to first. let's see how that goes.
That's definitely how I would progress it.
999
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 30, 2020, 09:33:53 am »
30-01-20
Shoulder again feeling a little better. Am optimistic that it'll fully recovery on its own, as long as I'm not stupid. Might leave off doing too much OAC stuff until I'm fully confident in that claim though. Perhaps isos or concentrics will be fine, but have to be v careful in lowering to full extension.
Surprisingly my lats are quite sore today! Yesterday's pullups were far from maximal, and not too much volume, so I'm a little confused by that! Would have thought they're adapted enough to not be sore from a light session given they're pretty similar to the movement in climbing, but I guess that palms away form is novel enough to induce some soreness. Wild. Guess I should make them my go-to pullup movement rather than chins going forward.
Serratus also sore. Shall stick with pushups -- seems like they can only be good for shoulder stability. Maybe I can nab a cheap weight vest somewhere -- would also be helpful for progressing ab wheel, if I ever get back to doing that consistently.
Shoulder again feeling a little better. Am optimistic that it'll fully recovery on its own, as long as I'm not stupid. Might leave off doing too much OAC stuff until I'm fully confident in that claim though. Perhaps isos or concentrics will be fine, but have to be v careful in lowering to full extension.
Surprisingly my lats are quite sore today! Yesterday's pullups were far from maximal, and not too much volume, so I'm a little confused by that! Would have thought they're adapted enough to not be sore from a light session given they're pretty similar to the movement in climbing, but I guess that palms away form is novel enough to induce some soreness. Wild. Guess I should make them my go-to pullup movement rather than chins going forward.
Serratus also sore. Shall stick with pushups -- seems like they can only be good for shoulder stability. Maybe I can nab a cheap weight vest somewhere -- would also be helpful for progressing ab wheel, if I ever get back to doing that consistently.
1000
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 29, 2020, 01:03:54 pm »
29-01-2020
BW - 69.8kg
Workout
Pullups
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 5, 5, 5
Deadhang
HC@24mm
BW x 5s, 7s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+13 x 5s
Repeaters
BW x 3 x 6x(4on6off)
Pushups
BW x 12, 12, 12
Notes
Left shoulder feeling a bit better again, but still not 100%. Feels sore basically if I put my hand directly overhead/really externally rotate. Fine with two-arm pullups at the bottom though, so it's just when in a very stretched position. Similarly a bit sore to hang one armed on just left arm before being warmed up, but mid session that felt fine.
Kept pullups a bit easier (think a semi deload is worthwhile this week), but am definitely weaker at pullups than chins, though maybe also a bit of general fatigue.
Grip stuff felt a lot stronger (4s on rather than 3s + an extra set from last time, and I think it still felt easier, so that's rad).
I am very bad at pushups, can do more dips than pushups, so will work on those. Probably good for shoulders too.
Might just rest totally until Sunday, not sure.
BW - 69.8kg
Workout
Pullups
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 5, 5, 5
Deadhang
HC@24mm
BW x 5s, 7s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+13 x 5s
Repeaters
BW x 3 x 6x(4on6off)
Pushups
BW x 12, 12, 12
Notes
Left shoulder feeling a bit better again, but still not 100%. Feels sore basically if I put my hand directly overhead/really externally rotate. Fine with two-arm pullups at the bottom though, so it's just when in a very stretched position. Similarly a bit sore to hang one armed on just left arm before being warmed up, but mid session that felt fine.
Kept pullups a bit easier (think a semi deload is worthwhile this week), but am definitely weaker at pullups than chins, though maybe also a bit of general fatigue.
Grip stuff felt a lot stronger (4s on rather than 3s + an extra set from last time, and I think it still felt easier, so that's rad).
I am very bad at pushups, can do more dips than pushups, so will work on those. Probably good for shoulders too.
Might just rest totally until Sunday, not sure.
1001
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 27, 2020, 04:14:31 pm »
27-01-20
Left should is a little sore today. Hopefully feels better tomorrow.
I feel like (and I've definitely said this before) I need to do more work with one armed hangs/scapular strength stuff. Just hate doing this on my bar at home, since it's so thin it really hurts to hang on, so I like minimising the amount of one arm stuff I do on it. Hangs seem worse than OAC stuff, I guess because hte load moves aroudn less and the TUT is longer. Just gotta suck it up, and probably do some of this stuff as part of warmup at the climbing gym. Would go well toward my OAC work.
Anyway, going to take two days off (including today) -- pretty sore. Amazing to me that people climb like 5 days a week. Want to build up that sort of recovery capacity.
Left should is a little sore today. Hopefully feels better tomorrow.
I feel like (and I've definitely said this before) I need to do more work with one armed hangs/scapular strength stuff. Just hate doing this on my bar at home, since it's so thin it really hurts to hang on, so I like minimising the amount of one arm stuff I do on it. Hangs seem worse than OAC stuff, I guess because hte load moves aroudn less and the TUT is longer. Just gotta suck it up, and probably do some of this stuff as part of warmup at the climbing gym. Would go well toward my OAC work.
Anyway, going to take two days off (including today) -- pretty sore. Amazing to me that people climb like 5 days a week. Want to build up that sort of recovery capacity.
1002
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 26, 2020, 01:00:01 pm »
26-01-20
Climbing
~2 hours
Climbing
~2 hours
1003
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 24, 2020, 11:33:50 am »
24/01/2020
Climbing
~75 mins
Short session, felt shit at start but after about 50 mins managed some decent efforts.
Hoping to be feeling nicely recovered for Sunday.
Climbing
~75 mins
Short session, felt shit at start but after about 50 mins managed some decent efforts.
Hoping to be feeling nicely recovered for Sunday.
1004
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 22, 2020, 01:05:33 pm »
BW - 69.7
Workout
Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1+1+1, 1+1+1, 1+1
Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 7s, 7s
HC@21mm
BW x 7s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+10.5 x 5s
HC Repeaters
BW x 2 x 6x(3on6off)
Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 8
+24 x 3
+8 x 10
Notes
Nice to have a strong feeling workout, feel like it's been a while.
Rep scheme for the OAC assisteds (i.e. 1+1) is htis: 1+1+1 means RLRLRL, only rest being time to get set up for next rep, 1+1 just RLRL. I guess that's just cluster reps.
Finger still not quite 100%, but definitely feels like it's at the point where it would benefit from some proper loading, rather than just climbing. Thing hangboard is actually good for finger recovery once you're able to do it, since the loading is so controlled (you're not throwing or grabbing suddenly, like you can often be while climbing). Structure for this will be to work up to a moderate-hard 5s hang, then do repeaters after for volume.
Climbing w/ friends sunday, might try to fit in a solo climb on friday.
Workout
Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1+1+1, 1+1+1, 1+1
Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 7s, 7s
HC@21mm
BW x 7s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+10.5 x 5s
HC Repeaters
BW x 2 x 6x(3on6off)
Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 8
+24 x 3
+8 x 10
Notes
Nice to have a strong feeling workout, feel like it's been a while.
Rep scheme for the OAC assisteds (i.e. 1+1) is htis: 1+1+1 means RLRLRL, only rest being time to get set up for next rep, 1+1 just RLRL. I guess that's just cluster reps.
Finger still not quite 100%, but definitely feels like it's at the point where it would benefit from some proper loading, rather than just climbing. Thing hangboard is actually good for finger recovery once you're able to do it, since the loading is so controlled (you're not throwing or grabbing suddenly, like you can often be while climbing). Structure for this will be to work up to a moderate-hard 5s hang, then do repeaters after for volume.
Climbing w/ friends sunday, might try to fit in a solo climb on friday.
1005
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 19, 2020, 01:21:00 pm »
19-01-2020
Climbing
~80 mins
Still super sore from Friday actually. Finger still not 100%, but since it doesn't feel like it's getting worse, I'll just keep at things and keep paying attention to it.
Managed some newly set wasps, which is good, not really a strong session. Head not quite in it, for whatever reason. Think probably that I didn't eat enough before going, which I'll try to be better about in future.
Climbing
~80 mins
Still super sore from Friday actually. Finger still not 100%, but since it doesn't feel like it's getting worse, I'll just keep at things and keep paying attention to it.
Managed some newly set wasps, which is good, not really a strong session. Head not quite in it, for whatever reason. Think probably that I didn't eat enough before going, which I'll try to be better about in future.