Adarq.org

30-07-19

Got antsy for lack of 'real' exercise (done lots of walking, obvs) and did some sets of pushups, hollow body holds and some hangs on various doorways. All the ledges too small for me to do more than a single + it's mega hot and sweaty so just sliding off. Should've packed chalk  The psyche is high for a return to training in a week, though.

Right ankle still very noticeably swollen and occasionally sore/sore in certain positions. May need to go get it examined further, sigh.

This dude is a very respected S&C coach in the climbing community, and for strength stuff he is obsesses with intense ISOs (and also talks about how 'the literature' suggests those are good for tendon repair/avoiding/rehabbing tendonitis). The OACs in the second video are extremely clean, and he says he doesn't train "moving" OACs ever -- in light of that smashing out as good a set of 5 as I've ever seen is wild. Maybe I should incorporate some of this ISO stuff for OAC/chin training then...not sure. I guess the whole of grip training for climbing is ISO based.

I obvs can't hold an OAC isometric for 5+ seconds yet, but he recommends 2-arm ISOs are good too if you can't do them...

Adarq you're an ISO expert, what do you think?

Edit: main strength protocol he suggests: 1-2 x clusters of 4x5s hangs, near max intensity 30-60s rest inside the cluster

on the plus side, today i finally got into grad school (17th grade! scholastic level PR!) (also what up, joe, i'm moving to london) and my organization signed a multimillion-dollar grant that will enable us to do some great work.

Sweet. We'll have to go running together when you get here! Where are you going to be studying? I'm guessing SOAS?

The soreness I get from climbing is really interesting. From my normal chinup training the soreness I get, when I get sore from it (which isn't very often), is localised to quite high up on my lats. From climbing the main soreness is rear delts and really low down on my lats, near where they insert at the hip.

20-07-19

BW - 71.9kg

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
+32 x 1
+40 x 1 
+43.75 x F [really fast pull to 90* then stuck, this will go pretty soon too]

OAC negatives
full rom x ~3s, ~4.5s 
bottom half x 2s

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm x 5s
HC@15mm x 8s, 8s, 8s
3FD@15mm x 8s

One arm scap pulls
BW x 3, 3

Dips/KB OHP
BW x 5
+10.5 x 7, 7, 7

Hollow Body Hold
BW x 33s, 33s

Notes

 

Maybe a dumb workout, but I had a feeling I was getting close to being able to do some meaningful one arm negatives. Had sort of internally decided I wouldn't bother with that until I'd hit 40kg on chinups first, though, so had to hit that. It moved really well so I decided to go up a bit more, should maybe have been less amibitious because 41.25/42.5 would almost definitely have gone, I think.

The OAC negatives felt fairly in control except for the very end bit of the ROM, so that's why I included the one arm scap pulls later in the workout. Need to get strong just hanging around on one arm and in the bottom bit of the ROM. My left shoulder impingement makes scap pulls feel a little funky if I do them lazily, though, so that's something I need to be careful of.

Deadhangs solid, didn't think I'd get to 3x8s on 15mm so quickly. When back from holiday I'll start weighted hangs on 18mm.

Likely only one more workout before I head on holiday. I'll do more volume than intensity that day, I think. Might be able to get two workouts in, though. Anyway, hopefully 10ish days of rest during which I do some elbow tendonitis repair focused eccentrics will put me in good stead to tackle the OAC properly.

Think if I stay uninjured and able to train this twice a week I'll have an OAC by the end of the year. Other than injury main impediment to this I foresee is that my chinning setup at home is not very convenient for OAC stuff, since it's one of those dip+chin stations. Means there's a lot of stuff very close to you all around you when chinning, so with having to twist a bit on OACs it's not very convenient.

Need to get out and run!! out all day tomorrow, so maybe monday..

stoked about this workout!

13-07-19

2 hour climbing sesh, was nice. Ankle held up well.

damn almost a chin + 40kg, sick. that climber strenf building.

Quote from: Joe on July 07, 2019, 01:00:16 pm

Highgate 10k was fun last night, seeing Steph Twell pull it out late against Salpeter was extremely hype.

so you went to it?

sick!

almost under 31 min. 31:08 is a no-joke time. Especially when you consider McColgan (mostly a 5k runner tho) was over a minute slower.

flying.

(full results:
https://results.opentrack.run/x/2019/GBR/not/)

men's C is still under 30 min. ridiculous.

that's such a sick event.

forgot to reply to this, sorry!

yeah it's a cool event, i wasn't feeling 100% that eve so didn't make the most of it, but it's amazing seeing people so fast like right up close. The crowd was also extremely hyped for McColgan. The track had a green light running around the inside lane to indicate the Olympic A standard, so she was getting cheered on to beat that standard, which she destroyed over the last couple of laps.

is there a reason you're doing chins rather than pull ups? i'd imagine pull ups have a more direct carryover to climbing because there's little to no pronated gripping on the wall.

Good question.

I find pullups a bit more tweaky on my elbows than chinups, and tbh my main goal is OAC moreso than getting better at climbing for the meanwhile (esp while ankle is still preventing me from climbing). Also I can move more weight so this feeds the ego, haha.