Adarq.org

15-02-20

Climbing

~2 hours

Phew! If I'm careful with my route selection I can basically avoid pain. Made a silly choice near the end and felt some pain, but it subsided quickly, so I'm feeling positive. Will see how everything is tomorrow -- possibly it was just being warm meant I couldn't feel pain, but I'm optimistic.

Did some OAC negatives/lock off @ 90/120* during the session, can hold those lock off for 5+ seconds now solidly, which is nice.

10-02-2020

Doing rehab for finger + shoulder prehab ()

Right hand is fucked up 

So annoyed about this, didn't really do anything wrong in the session, didn't push my climbing too hard, just had one unlucky slip at the end and made everything way worse.

On the up side, I have no soreness from yesterday's session, despite OAC negatives. However, given the state of my right hand I'm not sure when next I'll be able to hang from a pullup bar, let alone hang one handed on that hand...

05-02-20

Finger feels like 85% recovered, should be enough for a light climb + OAC training sesh tmrw. Frustrating to keep getting these little niggles, but hopefully they'll just clear up with more time spent climbing/adapting + some specific strength work.

My broad plan is a 6 week cycle 2xweek OAC negative work + maybe one other climbing sesh, then assess. Likely at that point I start a cut and aim to get to 65kg or lower

02-02-2020

Climbing

~2 hours total

After ~45 mins (about when I was fully warmed up and had started trying harder routes) I popped the training room to do the following:

Eccentric OAC
BW x RLRL, RLRL, RL, RL

Then finished with climbing for the rest of the session.

Notes

OAC eccentrics felt strong. Just need to be doing them more regularly, maybe 2xweek.  Didn't set up a timer for them or anything, but they were fully under control, bottom no quicker than top, etc., so that's good. Will try to progress them to doing like 4xRLRLRL, at which point I should be nice and strong.

Shoulder feels ok.

30-01-20

Shoulder again feeling a little better. Am optimistic that it'll fully recovery on its own, as long as I'm not stupid. Might leave off doing too much OAC stuff until I'm fully confident in that claim though. Perhaps isos or concentrics will be fine, but have to be v careful in lowering to full extension.

Surprisingly my lats are quite sore today! Yesterday's pullups were far from maximal, and not too much volume, so I'm a little confused by that! Would have thought they're adapted enough to not be sore from a light session given they're pretty similar to the movement in climbing, but I guess that palms away form is novel enough to induce some soreness. Wild. Guess I should make them my go-to pullup movement rather than chins going forward.

Serratus also sore. Shall stick with pushups -- seems like they can only be good for shoulder stability. Maybe I can nab a cheap weight vest somewhere -- would also be helpful for progressing ab wheel, if I ever get back to doing that consistently.

27-01-20

Left should is a little sore today. Hopefully feels better tomorrow.

I feel like (and I've definitely said this before) I need to do more work with one armed hangs/scapular strength stuff. Just hate doing this on my bar at home, since it's so thin it really hurts to hang on, so I like minimising the amount of one arm stuff I do on it. Hangs seem worse than OAC stuff, I guess because hte load moves aroudn less and the TUT is longer. Just gotta suck it up, and probably do some of this stuff as part of warmup at the climbing gym. Would go well toward my OAC work.

Anyway, going to take two days off (including today) -- pretty sore. Amazing to me that people climb like 5 days a week. Want to build up that sort of recovery capacity.