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Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: August 31, 2019, 04:56:48 am »
31-08-19
Middle knuckle of left ring finger is a bit sore today, so I'm not going to do any finer/grip work between now and Thursday's climb. I am almost certain this happened on the 3 finger drag climb. Normally I go right from whatever half crimp weight I'm using to doing the same load for 3FD work. I had a feeling yesterday, though, that that would be dumb since the 16kg hang was so maximal, but I didn't listen to my gut on that one, and now I'm paying the price. It's not too sore, so hopefully it heals up quickly enough.
Once finger is feeling recovered I might switch up the grip stuff to longer hangs. I've been doing some reading and the suggestion is that hangs in the 20-40s range are good for building up tendon/pulley/ligament conditioning, so hopefully playing around with that for a month or so might help me stay a little more injury resistant in my fingers.
Middle knuckle of left ring finger is a bit sore today, so I'm not going to do any finer/grip work between now and Thursday's climb. I am almost certain this happened on the 3 finger drag climb. Normally I go right from whatever half crimp weight I'm using to doing the same load for 3FD work. I had a feeling yesterday, though, that that would be dumb since the 16kg hang was so maximal, but I didn't listen to my gut on that one, and now I'm paying the price. It's not too sore, so hopefully it heals up quickly enough.
Once finger is feeling recovered I might switch up the grip stuff to longer hangs. I've been doing some reading and the suggestion is that hangs in the 20-40s range are good for building up tendon/pulley/ligament conditioning, so hopefully playing around with that for a month or so might help me stay a little more injury resistant in my fingers.
