Adarq.org

05-01-2020

Climbing

~2.5 hours

Spent mostly trying lots of hard stuff. Tore some skin on left ring finger, but not too bad. Still sore from the Sun/Tue/Thur burst of training, to be honest, so power wasn't really there. Was close-ish on a black (the tier above blue) route -- if I'm fully rested I think I might be able to manage it. Think I checked off another blue, and a few whites/wasps.

Need to work out how to balance OAC/strength training with climbing. Might alternate between 2 climbs / 1 lift and 1 climb / 2 lift weeks until I have the OAC? Anyway, I'm not sure I'll be able to put in a good effort at anything this week until maybe Wednesday (or possibly even Thursday, unless recovery rate picks up), so might only get 2 sessions in this week.

31/12/2019

BW - 69.1

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1
-5 x 1 [from bottom on left, had to start with slightly bent arm on right]
-16 x 3, 3

Hangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 8s, 8s, 8s

Dips
BW x 5
+16 x 6, 6, 6

Planche Leans
BW x 10s, 10s

Notes

Solid workout. Right arm feels weaker coming out of the bottom on OAC, even if elsewhere strength feels very similar.

That's 2019 done. Not trained as consistently as I would have liked, but it's one of my better years probably. Getting injured sucked, though if that hadn't happened I probably would not be into climbing/so close on OAC, so I can't be too upset about it.

Lighter workout on chins/grip stuff than usual as I'm climbing Thursday.

Weight creeping up slowly. Been eating out a lot and having lots of big family meals, etc. Will try to arrest that, and maybe drift back towards 67.x, so that the cut to <65 isn't too big a thing when I make that move some time in the new year.

Happy New Year everyone!

26-12-19

BW - 68.8

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+ 8 x 2
+ 24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1, 1, 1, 1

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 7, 7, 7, 7, 7

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 8, 8, 8

Planche Leans
BW x 10s, 10s

Notes

Think when I'm hitting strong doubles at -8 on assisted OACs I'll be very close.

22/12/19

Climb

~2 hours -- managed a "blue" route at the gym for the first time, and then climbed a second one. They're graded v4-6, fwiw. Very stoked on that. Amusingly my best style of climb isn't really strength based/big move routes, but ones where balance or leg strength are the main thing (the first blue one involved doing almost a pistol squat from an awkward position, so it's good I can still do those).

At the end of the climbing sesh, I did some OAC negatives, for fun. One @ BW on each arm, then two + 4kg on each arm just for larks. Doing weighted negatives is probably not super smart, especially while fatigued, but whatever I wanted to give it a go. Could control pretty well all the way down to the bottom. Have to say it is way nicer doing OAC work on a pullup bar that you have to jump up to, and which has loads of space to its sides, as compared to a cramped chinup tower...

Anyway, super awesome session.

18/12/19

Climb ~ 90 mins

11-12-19

Climb

Bouldering for 2 hours

Notes

Still sore from Sunday. Forearms will be sore for days from this, I can tell. Was fun. Good to get mind off election stress.

well, i fucking did it.



- 5k race in 19:55
splits: 3:55, 4:00, 3:58, 3:58, 4:03

 

ETA: didn't print out a barcode so i won't get an official time, but that's okay. watch time actually took me past the course finish, so official time would have been a few seconds faster. incidentally, mapmyrun has a weirdly big gap between km pace and km elapsed time splits. the latter gives a time of 19:37. dunno why that would be, usually elapsed time is longer, if anything, because it accounts for stopping for road crossings. garmin site says 19:55 as well so let's go with that.

felt the pain especially between 3.5-4.5 km. pace was slowest around 3.6-3.7 but managed to surge enough that when i died in the last few hundred meters i had enough buffer to make it under the 20:00 mark. a little disappointed that i faded so badly and was slowing down at the finish but, under the circumstances -- first race in more than a year, run at all-time PR pace, at 9 AM after <7 hours of sleep -- not THAT disappointed.

woop woop woop! i sense bigger things coming now that the pressure is off a bit!

Training still nit been very structured, though OAC progress been good. Managed a successful BW OAC from 90 degrees on left, couldn't quite manage that on my right. Want to get back to running and structured training soon though.

Quote from: Joe on November 12, 2019, 05:03:12 am

Quiz went well, got a bronze medal in the team thing and had a few other top 15 finishes.

damn nice!!

Thanks dude!