Adarq.org

05-09-19

Bouldering ~2 hours

Notes

First time I've climbed in ages, so my "climbing brain" felt very stupid + clumsy, but this was the best I've ever been, I think. The strength made a huge difference. If I want to start climbing like 2xWeek then i'll improve super fast, but not sure that I want to commit the time to that just yet. Want more strength and OACs first.

Played around a little bit in the strength training section of the gym, friend egging me on to try OACs. This was after about 1 hour of climbing, and I'm still a little sore from the last OAC session, so wasn't expecting much. Couldn't pull up at all, really, but could do a good ISO at like 120* and 90*, so progress feels like it's coming along.

Bought a nylon strap the other that I will sling over my pullup bar at some and tie weights to try out assisted/countweight OACs in the next sess.

Exciting news: was late for something yesterday so decided to run to the meeting, ended up being like a mile through the city streets in ~7.30ish. Ankle not too bothered by it! So, am therefore going to get back to light running, just like ~30 mins easy every other day or so. Hopefully build back ankle strength slowly. Should also contribute to the weight/fat loss plan.

31-08-19

Middle knuckle of left ring finger is a bit sore today, so I'm not going to do any finer/grip work between now and Thursday's climb. I am almost certain this happened on the 3 finger drag climb. Normally I go right from whatever half crimp weight I'm using to doing the same load for 3FD work. I had a feeling yesterday, though, that that would be dumb since the 16kg hang was so maximal, but I didn't listen to my gut on that one, and now I'm paying the price. It's not too sore, so hopefully it heals up quickly enough.

Once finger is feeling recovered I might switch up the grip stuff to longer hangs. I've been doing some reading and the suggestion is that hangs in the 20-40s range are good for building up tendon/pulley/ligament conditioning, so hopefully playing around with that for a month or so might help me stay a little more injury resistant in my fingers.

also i'm stuck in 'merica for another week because the UK government, in its wisdom, decided to make the visa application process a gigantic and unpredictable pain in the ass. in its defense, all countries do that. on the other hand, fuck borders.

 

the uk is especially talented in this regard 

29-08-19

BW - 69.9kg

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+16 x 1
+32 x 1

OAC Negative
BW x 1, 1

KB Swing
24 x 10 x 10 [EMOM]

Notes

Pretty surprised by my weight. I usually weigh right before my workout, so I'm all fed etc., so it's not really a "minimal" BW like you get if you weigh first thing in the morning. Today I weighed at the end of my workout, so probs a few hundreds grams lighter than I'd normally weigh because of water loss. In any case, I'm pretty sure that's the first time I've officially clocked <70kg in my 20s, lmao.

Swings not too bad.

I've got way over excited about having OAC negatives to play with. I need to just not touch the chinup bar until Sunday or Monday.

Tomorrow, pushing + hanging + core. Need to get back on my previous sort of workout schedule, that was really suiting me. Need to rest up and put in quality OAC work rather than messing around. Also need to get back in the climbing gym -- going next Thursday with a friend, so that's locked in.

If you get a tower, I definitely recommend that it's one where the chinup bar and the dip bars are on opposite sides. The one I use has them both on the same side, and that's been really annoying. Feel very constrained when doing chins.

23-08-19

BW - 71.0kg

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
+32 x 1

ISO @ 120*
+53.6 x 4 x 4s [60s rest]

ISO @ 90*
+45 x 4 x 4 [60s rest, ez!]

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+5 x 5s
+10.5 x 10s
+13 x 5s, 5s

One Arm Hang
BW x 20s, 20s

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 6, 6, 6

Ab Wheel (standing + kneeling)
BW x 4+6, 4+6, 4+6

Notes

Felt strong at 90*, rest of the workout slightly meh.

Might take a rest from upper lifting for a couple of extra days then test progress, rather than commit to the previously outlined plan.

Need to commit to weight loss + doing KB stuff regularly, too.

18-08-19

Workout

10 x 10 KB Swings in 7:45

Notes

Sets 8 and 9 where done one handed. This was easy, so shall move up to 24kg next session I guess.

14-08-19

BW - 71.0

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+16 x 2
+24 x 1
+32 x 1

ISO@120*
+50.5 x 4x5s [60s rest]

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
BW pullup x 2
+3.75 x 10s [easy!]
+5 x 7s, 7s
3FD@18mm
+5 x 12s, 12s

PPPU
100cm to rack x 6
94cm to rack x 5, 5, 5

Hollow Body Hold
+2.5 x 25s, 25s

Notes

Big construction project starting in building next to mine, total refurb. Insanely noisy all day, and looks like it'll be a long term thing. Might drive me mad lmao.

Slightly abbreviated workout today.

Did the PPPUs using the pushup handles on my pullup/dip rack, since that enables more ROM + easier on wrists. The only way to track progress w/ PPPUs is with how far you're leaning, which best metric for is distance from feet to hands, hence the weird metric used for those. Felt good, though. Always wanted to be able to do planche stuff, too, but never really messed around that much with training it. Feels like this is a good way to start in that direction.

Setting up the 50.5kg on my dip belt was awkward AF. The belt I have now kind of sucks, never really sits in a very good spot on my waist. Anyway, hitting that pretty solidly felt rad. I can only max out with 53kg of weights before I have to do like books in a bag or whatever. That probably marks a good time to finish with the ISO cycle, anyway. Might be able to hit that in a couple of weeks.

Grip was super strong, especially given that I'm a little heavier today than the last couple of sessions. Thought I would be doing 3x7s with 3.75kg today, but that 10s second hang was very easy. Will move up to 8kg for the 3FD hangs next time.

Hollow body feeling stronger too. After I'm solid at 30s with +2.5kg on this I'll move back to ab wheels. Maybe I should get ankle weights? Would be useful for hangs/isos and hollow body stuff. Hmm.