Adarq.org

02-02-2020

Climbing

~2 hours total

After ~45 mins (about when I was fully warmed up and had started trying harder routes) I popped the training room to do the following:

Eccentric OAC
BW x RLRL, RLRL, RL, RL

Then finished with climbing for the rest of the session.

Notes

OAC eccentrics felt strong. Just need to be doing them more regularly, maybe 2xweek.  Didn't set up a timer for them or anything, but they were fully under control, bottom no quicker than top, etc., so that's good. Will try to progress them to doing like 4xRLRLRL, at which point I should be nice and strong.

Shoulder feels ok.

30-01-20

Shoulder again feeling a little better. Am optimistic that it'll fully recovery on its own, as long as I'm not stupid. Might leave off doing too much OAC stuff until I'm fully confident in that claim though. Perhaps isos or concentrics will be fine, but have to be v careful in lowering to full extension.

Surprisingly my lats are quite sore today! Yesterday's pullups were far from maximal, and not too much volume, so I'm a little confused by that! Would have thought they're adapted enough to not be sore from a light session given they're pretty similar to the movement in climbing, but I guess that palms away form is novel enough to induce some soreness. Wild. Guess I should make them my go-to pullup movement rather than chins going forward.

Serratus also sore. Shall stick with pushups -- seems like they can only be good for shoulder stability. Maybe I can nab a cheap weight vest somewhere -- would also be helpful for progressing ab wheel, if I ever get back to doing that consistently.

27-01-20

Left should is a little sore today. Hopefully feels better tomorrow.

I feel like (and I've definitely said this before) I need to do more work with one armed hangs/scapular strength stuff. Just hate doing this on my bar at home, since it's so thin it really hurts to hang on, so I like minimising the amount of one arm stuff I do on it. Hangs seem worse than OAC stuff, I guess because hte load moves aroudn less and the TUT is longer. Just gotta suck it up, and probably do some of this stuff as part of warmup at the climbing gym. Would go well toward my OAC work.

Anyway, going to take two days off (including today) -- pretty sore. Amazing to me that people climb like 5 days a week. Want to build up that sort of recovery capacity.

24/01/2020

Climbing

~75 mins

Short session, felt shit at start but after about 50 mins managed some decent efforts.

Hoping to be feeling nicely recovered for Sunday.

19-01-2020

Climbing

~80 mins

Still super sore from Friday actually. Finger still not 100%, but since it doesn't feel like it's getting worse, I'll just keep at things and keep paying attention to it.

Managed some newly set wasps, which is good, not really a strong session. Head not quite in it, for whatever reason. Think probably that I didn't eat enough before going, which I'll try to be better about in future.

Hah, I was opening this post expecting it to be about huge DOMS from your first workout, and it did not disappoint.

14/01/2020

Climbing

~2.5 hours

Nice sesh. Tried to stay off crimpy things/things that required a lot of weight on right finger, which I think was prudent. Finger slightly more sore at end of session than before it, but still less sore than it was yesterday or on Sunday, so that seems fine to me.

Obviously still quite fatigued from Sunday, and powered out quite quickly this sesh, but still gave a bunch of things a try.

Might train Friday (may not do any hangs if finger still feels tweaky), and then climb Sunday.

Edit: got a brachioradialis cramp during this sesh, which i've never had before. gnarly!

BW - 69.6

09/01/2020

Pullups
BW x 3, 3, 3

Super Wide Grip Arched Back Pullups
BW x 4, 4, 4, 4

Hangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
 
Repeaters
HC@18mm
BW x 2 x 6x(5 on/5 off) [last two "on" periods of second set a bit dodgy tbh]
3FD@18mm
BW x 6x(4 on/6 off) [don't like this grip as much for long/repeated holds, feel a bit more tweaky fwiw]

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 6, 6

KB OHP
16 x 6, 6

Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8

Notes

Mostly recovered from cold, but not 100%. Similarly still feeling a little sore/achey, so pulls/hangs wise did a different workout. The super wide grip pullups feel very specific to quite a few climbing movements, so I like those. Did them submaximally, which was a nice change of pace.

Think I will make repeaters the main form of hang training I do rather than more max hangs, just for a cycle or two, work up to being able to manage like 5x(7on/3off) @ 18mm.

Climbing Sunday, hopefully.