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Messages - Joe

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661
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 05, 2020, 05:09:14 pm »
05-02-20

Finger feels like 85% recovered, should be enough for a light climb + OAC training sesh tmrw. Frustrating to keep getting these little niggles, but hopefully they'll just clear up with more time spent climbing/adapting + some specific strength work.

My broad plan is a 6 week cycle 2xweek OAC negative work + maybe one other climbing sesh, then assess. Likely at that point I start a cut and aim to get to 65kg or lower

662
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 03, 2020, 10:02:12 am »
03-02-2020

Ring finger on right hand a little sore. Think it's either from a route I did that had some two-finger pockets, or some a move I kept trying that involved jumping out to quite a small hold with my right hand. Or a combo. Didn't hurt during the session, only felt it first at about bed time. I think that's hopefully a good sign that it's not too major and just sorts itself out in a few days. Also think it is a sign that I should be doing some open hand/3 fingers stuff in my hangboarding, and not just half crimp, just to get more adapted to that position + condition the ring finger in particular, since both of mine have been injury prone.

Biceps, lats, triceps and brachioradialis are mega sore today. That's what OAC eccentrics will do, I guess. Good sign, though, that I can do them pretty strognly without actually being all that adapted to them. Gains to be made by practicing them for sure.

663
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: February 02, 2020, 12:31:52 pm »
02-02-2020

Climbing

~2 hours total

After ~45 mins (about when I was fully warmed up and had started trying harder routes) I popped the training room to do the following:

Eccentric OAC
BW x RLRL, RLRL, RL, RL

Then finished with climbing for the rest of the session.

Notes

OAC eccentrics felt strong. Just need to be doing them more regularly, maybe 2xweek.  Didn't set up a timer for them or anything, but they were fully under control, bottom no quicker than top, etc., so that's good. Will try to progress them to doing like 4xRLRLRL, at which point I should be nice and strong.

Shoulder feels ok.

664
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: a fast and explosive donkey!
« on: February 02, 2020, 12:29:11 pm »
Quote from: LBSS on February 02, 2020, 06:26:32 am
- pull up x 6,6,5
decided to start adding reps to the first set, then second, then third, then back to first. let's see how that goes.

That's definitely how I would progress it.

665
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 30, 2020, 09:33:53 am »
30-01-20

Shoulder again feeling a little better. Am optimistic that it'll fully recovery on its own, as long as I'm not stupid. Might leave off doing too much OAC stuff until I'm fully confident in that claim though. Perhaps isos or concentrics will be fine, but have to be v careful in lowering to full extension.

Surprisingly my lats are quite sore today! Yesterday's pullups were far from maximal, and not too much volume, so I'm a little confused by that! Would have thought they're adapted enough to not be sore from a light session given they're pretty similar to the movement in climbing, but I guess that palms away form is novel enough to induce some soreness. Wild. Guess I should make them my go-to pullup movement rather than chins going forward.

Serratus also sore. Shall stick with pushups -- seems like they can only be good for shoulder stability. Maybe I can nab a cheap weight vest somewhere -- would also be helpful for progressing ab wheel, if I ever get back to doing that consistently.

666
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 29, 2020, 01:03:54 pm »
29-01-2020

BW - 69.8kg

Workout

Pullups
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 5, 5, 5

Deadhang
HC@24mm
BW x 5s, 7s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+13 x 5s

Repeaters
BW x 3 x 6x(4on6off)

Pushups
BW x 12, 12, 12

Notes

Left shoulder feeling a bit better again, but still not 100%. Feels sore basically if I put my hand directly overhead/really externally rotate. Fine with two-arm pullups at the bottom though, so it's just when in a very stretched position. Similarly a bit sore to hang one armed on just left arm before being warmed up, but mid session that felt fine.

Kept pullups a bit easier (think a semi deload is worthwhile this week), but am definitely weaker at pullups than chins, though maybe also a bit of general fatigue.

Grip stuff felt a lot stronger (4s on rather than 3s + an extra set from last time, and I think it still felt easier, so that's rad).

I am very bad at pushups, can do more dips than pushups, so will work on those. Probably good for shoulders too.

Might just rest totally until Sunday, not sure.

667
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 27, 2020, 04:14:31 pm »
27-01-20

Left should is a little sore today. Hopefully feels better tomorrow.

I feel like (and I've definitely said this before) I need to do more work with one armed hangs/scapular strength stuff. Just hate doing this on my bar at home, since it's so thin it really hurts to hang on, so I like minimising the amount of one arm stuff I do on it. Hangs seem worse than OAC stuff, I guess because hte load moves aroudn less and the TUT is longer. Just gotta suck it up, and probably do some of this stuff as part of warmup at the climbing gym. Would go well toward my OAC work.

Anyway, going to take two days off (including today) -- pretty sore. Amazing to me that people climb like 5 days a week. Want to build up that sort of recovery capacity.

668
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 26, 2020, 01:00:01 pm »
26-01-20

Climbing

~2 hours

669
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 24, 2020, 11:33:50 am »
24/01/2020

Climbing

~75 mins

Short session, felt shit at start but after about 50 mins managed some decent efforts.

Hoping to be feeling nicely recovered for Sunday.

670
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 22, 2020, 01:05:33 pm »
BW - 69.7

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1+1+1, 1+1+1, 1+1

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 7s, 7s
HC@21mm
BW x 7s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+10.5 x 5s

HC Repeaters
BW x 2 x 6x(3on6off)

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 8
+24 x 3
+8 x 10

Notes

Nice to have a strong feeling workout, feel like it's been a while.

Rep scheme for the OAC assisteds (i.e. 1+1)  is htis: 1+1+1 means RLRLRL, only rest being time to get set up for next rep, 1+1 just RLRL. I guess that's just cluster reps.

Finger still not quite 100%, but definitely feels like it's at the point where it would benefit from some proper loading, rather than just climbing. Thing hangboard is actually good for finger recovery once you're able to do it, since the loading is so controlled (you're not throwing or grabbing suddenly, like you can often be while climbing). Structure for this will be to work up to a moderate-hard 5s hang, then do repeaters after for volume.

Climbing w/ friends sunday, might try to fit in a solo climb on friday.

671
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 19, 2020, 01:21:00 pm »
19-01-2020

Climbing

~80 mins

Still super sore from Friday actually. Finger still not 100%, but since it doesn't feel like it's getting worse, I'll just keep at things and keep paying attention to it.

Managed some newly set wasps, which is good, not really a strong session. Head not quite in it, for whatever reason. Think probably that I didn't eat enough before going, which I'll try to be better about in future.

672
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 17, 2020, 12:32:40 pm »
BW - 69.7

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1 [felt super easy]
-8 x 1
-3.75 x to 90* on right, 1 on left

ISO Hangs
120* x 5s, 3s

OAC Negative
Didn't time, but did RLRLRL with minimal rest between each rep

Assisted OAC
-8 x 1 + long hold @120* on the eccentric

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 7, 7
BW x 11

Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8, 8

Notes

Injured ring finger feels basically better, but I managed to get myself not to do any finger/grip training anyway, to really give it time.

Need to work strength in the bottom range of OAC I think, so I liked that last movement with the long hold at the weak point after a rep.

673
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: a fast and explosive donkey!
« on: January 15, 2020, 12:15:05 pm »
Hah, I was opening this post expecting it to be about huge DOMS from your first workout, and it did not disappoint.

674
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 15, 2020, 08:01:05 am »
Have been feeling a lot less sore after climbing sessions lately, which is great. Especially as the sessions have regularly been pretty long lately, exceeding two hours. Very happy about this, as I was sort of worried that I would just always be mega sore even after moderate sessions and never be able to up volume. Silly, I know, but the soreness just felt like it was going that way. Guess it just took longer to adapt to climbing soreness since the movements are so varied, as compared to running or lifting. Might still aim to keep climbs <2 hours, as they stop being super productive for me after about 90 mins -- power output so much lower that I can't feel go full effort after that point, and the injury rate is defo higher when climbing in a fatigued state. However, climbing is super fun, esp with people, so it's hard to stop!

675
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 14, 2020, 11:33:24 am »
14/01/2020

Climbing

~2.5 hours

Nice sesh. Tried to stay off crimpy things/things that required a lot of weight on right finger, which I think was prudent. Finger slightly more sore at end of session than before it, but still less sore than it was yesterday or on Sunday, so that seems fine to me.

Obviously still quite fatigued from Sunday, and powered out quite quickly this sesh, but still gave a bunch of things a try.

Might train Friday (may not do any hangs if finger still feels tweaky), and then climb Sunday.

Edit: got a brachioradialis cramp during this sesh, which i've never had before. gnarly!

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