Adarq.org

A test it never occurred to me to do to see how recovery is coming along, but which I now did.

Core idea: the worst part of the injury is my ability to three finger drag (hang from three fingers) without pain. So I set up my scale underneath my hangboard to see how much weight I could load before pain began. Was about 35kg, so half BW. Got to progress this number.

A common protocol for pulley injuries is to gradually load them to just before the painful load, but since this is a lumbrical/muscle injury rather than a tendon one, I'm less sure of that protocol. Any thoughts about recovering muscle strains?  In any case, if I do pursue that method, I guessed I'd be aiming at like 3-5x10-30s at non-painful load, checking how much I'm weighting with the scale each week. Edit: skimming some stuff suggests progressive loading is used/useful for muscle strain recovery too, so guess i will be doing this.

weak hands are weak.

come climb

27-02-20

Climbing

~90 mins

Finger feeling a little better yet again. Getting psyched for when I can give full efforts with it again.

21-02-20

Rehab workout

pinch
8kg x 30s, 30s, 30s, 30s

Hang on fingerboard jug
BW x 30s, 30s, 30s

+ rice bucket, etc

17-02-20

BW - 70.0

Workout

Some chins/scap pulls/serratus pushups etc to warm up

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 3s, 3s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 1s, 3s
HC@15mm
BW x 3s

Repeaters
HC@18mm
2 x 5 x (6 on / 3 off) -- Pretty close to failure on second set

Pinch block
5 x 5s
8 x 5s
10.5 x 5s
13 x 5s, 5s, 5s

Foot elevated pushbacks [https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLAD357FF6D01777E3&v=neypL5llLxY]
BW x 6, 6

Pushbacks
BW x 8, 8

Notes

This finger injury is so weird to me. I can (half) crimp basically near max with no pain, but open hand is excruciating. Anyway, feels like the open hand part is recovering along too, and it's nice to be still be able to train other things hard (seems the consensus is it is good to keep training other aspects of finger strength while this is recovering, as far as I can tell).

Pinch block fun as heck to train with. Don't really know what the gold standard is, but I guess getting to around 50% BW is a good goal, since that means you could hang off two of them without the benefit of compression, theoretically. (having looked this up, half bw is pretty elite, lmao -- yeah, elite climber Magnus Midbto, who weighs abt my weight, does ~41kg on this on the IronMind one [mine is grip genie -- idk which is easier/harder])

Pushbacks seem to really get my serratus going, and are pretty tough. Need to be doing more scapular strengthening stuff, esp for antagonist things like pushups, since that feels like a weakness and is potentially implicated in the shoulder pain I've been having.

Weight going up slowly -- not really bothered, think it is slow enough + I have been training (hard) enough that it probably means a decent amount of it is muscle. GF says I'm looking thicker so I'll take her word for it. Hoping to reap the benefits when I cut in 4-6 weeks.

Rest tmrw, climb Wednesday probably.

15-02-20

Climbing

~2 hours

Phew! If I'm careful with my route selection I can basically avoid pain. Made a silly choice near the end and felt some pain, but it subsided quickly, so I'm feeling positive. Will see how everything is tomorrow -- possibly it was just being warm meant I couldn't feel pain, but I'm optimistic.

Did some OAC negatives/lock off @ 90/120* during the session, can hold those lock off for 5+ seconds now solidly, which is nice.

10-02-2020

Doing rehab for finger + shoulder prehab ()

Right hand is fucked up 

So annoyed about this, didn't really do anything wrong in the session, didn't push my climbing too hard, just had one unlucky slip at the end and made everything way worse.

On the up side, I have no soreness from yesterday's session, despite OAC negatives. However, given the state of my right hand I'm not sure when next I'll be able to hang from a pullup bar, let alone hang one handed on that hand...