Adarq.org

BW - 69.7

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1+1+1, 1+1+1, 1+1

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 7s, 7s
HC@21mm
BW x 7s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+10.5 x 5s

HC Repeaters
BW x 2 x 6x(3on6off)

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 8
+24 x 3
+8 x 10

Notes

Nice to have a strong feeling workout, feel like it's been a while.

Rep scheme for the OAC assisteds (i.e. 1+1)  is htis: 1+1+1 means RLRLRL, only rest being time to get set up for next rep, 1+1 just RLRL. I guess that's just cluster reps.

Finger still not quite 100%, but definitely feels like it's at the point where it would benefit from some proper loading, rather than just climbing. Thing hangboard is actually good for finger recovery once you're able to do it, since the loading is so controlled (you're not throwing or grabbing suddenly, like you can often be while climbing). Structure for this will be to work up to a moderate-hard 5s hang, then do repeaters after for volume.

Climbing w/ friends sunday, might try to fit in a solo climb on friday.

BW - 69.7

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1 [felt super easy]
-8 x 1
-3.75 x to 90* on right, 1 on left

ISO Hangs
120* x 5s, 3s

OAC Negative
Didn't time, but did RLRLRL with minimal rest between each rep

Assisted OAC
-8 x 1 + long hold @120* on the eccentric

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 7, 7
BW x 11

Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8, 8

Notes

Injured ring finger feels basically better, but I managed to get myself not to do any finger/grip training anyway, to really give it time.

Need to work strength in the bottom range of OAC I think, so I liked that last movement with the long hold at the weak point after a rep.

Have been feeling a lot less sore after climbing sessions lately, which is great. Especially as the sessions have regularly been pretty long lately, exceeding two hours. Very happy about this, as I was sort of worried that I would just always be mega sore even after moderate sessions and never be able to up volume. Silly, I know, but the soreness just felt like it was going that way. Guess it just took longer to adapt to climbing soreness since the movements are so varied, as compared to running or lifting. Might still aim to keep climbs <2 hours, as they stop being super productive for me after about 90 mins -- power output so much lower that I can't feel go full effort after that point, and the injury rate is defo higher when climbing in a fatigued state. However, climbing is super fun, esp with people, so it's hard to stop!

12/01/20

Climbing

~2 hours

Did some more technique focussed/drill style warmups for first 45 mins, fun stuff. Climbing one legged to really focus on flags/balance, trying climbs super slow vs super fast to see when each works. Was nice to have some more focus.

Last remnants of cold still there, so felt a bit wretched at points.

Almost managed human flag at end of session, when v fatigued (had done some circuit routes on overhanging walls the really drained endurance + did a good OAC eccentric on each arm). Will try again when fresh at some point, would love to have that skill again.

Mildly tweaked right ring finger between 1st and 2nd knuckle. It's slightly tender to the touch, but doesn't hurt to move it or load it or hang/climb, etc., so hopefully that clears up quickly.

have a cold, bleh. still sore from sunday actually, probs exacerbated by the cold, but enforced rest probs not too bad an idea anyway

02-01-2020

Climbing

~2 hours

Mostly trying hard stuff. Was with three friends -- two about my level (maybe a touch better, but we can all attempt similar routes), one a beginner. Really nice bouncing ideas about to try routes off each other/motivating each other to try hard. Never really trained in a group before, but these guys have a good mindset, so it's nice. Going again w/ them on Sunday.

Quite sore from Tuesday/Sunday. Every other day is pretty tough for climbing stuff. Glad to be getting two full rest days before next session -- hoping to be feeling v strong for it.

Did an partial rom OAC starting with arm @ about ~130 degrees on both arms.  [Was actually not quite full effort either, so I'm getting super close to having the skill on lock. Going to be hyped out of my mind when I get it. Will try to get footage. It's likely to happen in a climbing gym rather than at home, I think, since my bar is not very suitable.]

29/12/19

Climbing

~75 mins

Did some Moonboard climbing. It's a cool thing -- standardised set of holds that lots of gyms have. People can set their own routes for you to climb, and they upload them to an app. You connect your phone with bluetooth and you can make the problems light up on the board. Anyway, even the easiest problems on it are a bit hard for me at the minute, and I really need to work on my footwork with it. Just very different to what I'm used too -- very overhang and has small holds. Good for strength, though, so can't wait to get the hang of it.

Saw Max Milne at the gym, think he came like 4th at the last world youth climbing championships. He's on another level, it's nuts.

23/12/19

On the plus side, have got my fiancee into strength training, on the down side I forgot the pan I took out the oven would have a hot handle and burned my right hand. Hopefully the latter heals up soon, as it doesn't seem _too_ bad...