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Messages - Joe

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616
i never do single arm hangs, my handles are metal and thin, even with two hands my hands get wrecked before my lats. i need some rubber covers or something. if my metal handles were thicker, i think it'd be more bearable. like those pullup bars at parks, usually feel petty good. i might look into a dip/pullup station eventually (in case i land in a new spot - don't want to take my rack there).

Never replied to this but yeah this is very much an issue with my one arm hangs. The bar I chin/hang on is really thin, but does have a weird foamy cover which I think just makes it worse. At least it helps toughen up skin for climbing, I guess? Good to build some mental toughness too, lol. Wish the default for these stations was a little thicker.

617
07-08-19

BW - 70.5kg

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8kg x 3
+16 x 2
+24 x 1
+32 x 1

ISO Chins @ 120*
+40 x 10s [easy]
+48 x 4x5s cluster [45s rest]

ISO Chins @ 90*
+40 x 5s
+40 x 4x5s cluster [45s rest]

HC Deadhangs
@24mm x 5s
@18mm
BW x 5s, 5s
+2.5 x 7s, 7s, 7s

3FD Deadhangs
@18mm
+2.5 x 10s, 10s

SS1A One Arm Hang
+8 x 12s, 12s
+16 x 8s

SS1B
Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 9, 9, 8

Notes

Solid enough workout. Got back yesterday, so brain is still mush from jet lag.

Decided to try out the iso stuff I was posting about. Felt good, I guess. Will alternate isos with ordinary chin work, I think. Main downside at the moment is that loading that much on KBs is really awkward, so I might need to get some plates for chinning with. Ah well.

Need to get better at controlling spin in the one arm hangs.

Didn't have the energy for core work.

Also, lmao, felt like I'd been eating like a pig while travelling, but appaz I dropped 1kg. I guess time on feet makes a big difference.

618
Quick post from phone; will edit for format another time.

KB workout with a ffiend, rows at 30kg and ohp/push press with 20kg, plus some swings/snatches/misc other messing around.

Serratus pretty sure from last workout. I think this is because I did some pseudo planche pushups. Should maybe add those in in place of dips on some days.

619
There's lots of good info out there on the benefits of iso's.  I'm incorporating them right now, but more in the Jay Schroeder model. 

Check out Keith Baar when you have time.  There are a couple of podcasts or videos he's done where he talks about the benefits of iso's on tendon rehab/strength etc... pretty interesting stuff


Thanks, I'll check out Baar! I remember Schroder from the good old ISO EXTREMES days. Not sure I totally buy into it, but there is some overlap between what he recommends and what's recommended by the c4hp dude I posted above (primarily focussing on longer muscle lengths).

Right ankle still very noticeably swollen and occasionally sore/sore in certain positions. May need to go get it examined further, sigh.

damn that sucks man :/

you stopped icing?

it's feeling stronger though right?

i probably should get my injury checked out too.. slight improvement tho recently, so still trying to hold off & hope it magically disappears.

I think it's probably got worse while travelling, since I've been on my feet so much, and yeah had not been icing very much before setting off, either. Should get back on that when home and see what happens.

It is feeling stronger. Need to do more dedicated strengthening stuff, though, like calf raises, etc.

620
30-07-19

Got antsy for lack of 'real' exercise (done lots of walking, obvs) and did some sets of pushups, hollow body holds and some hangs on various doorways. All the ledges too small for me to do more than a single + it's mega hot and sweaty so just sliding off. Should've packed chalk  :P The psyche is high for a return to training in a week, though.

Right ankle still very noticeably swollen and occasionally sore/sore in certain positions. May need to go get it examined further, sigh.

621
ah damn about the rings. ya i need to figure out how to get back into them. going to step up my bodyweight training a little, soon. want to get back on the rings, loved em`.

With you on that! Rings are great fun. Basically all climbing gyms have a rings set up, usually at a good height, so I might staying messing around with them more during warmup/cooldowns.

i have no expertise anymore :ninja:, but i do prefer yielding isos vs overcoming, for most stuff, except maybe grip. i don't like overcoming isos for pretty much anything else, too intense & burn me out too quick. the pulling muscles (lats for example) probably respond better to yielding isos/holds. so i can see weighted holds or negatives being pretty effective.

looks like he probably knows what he's doing, probably good advice. with any of that stuff tho, have to be careful.

that guy's oac's are insanely strong.

Makes sense. I have never really understood the point of overcoming ISOs either. I saw somewhere in his feed he does recommend them as part of OAC training for people who can't do an ISO hang yet, but I don't think I'll bother with that. Will just incorporate some of this into my training and see where that takes me.

622




This dude is a very respected S&C coach in the climbing community, and for strength stuff he is obsesses with intense ISOs (and also talks about how 'the literature' suggests those are good for tendon repair/avoiding/rehabbing tendonitis). The OACs in the second video are extremely clean, and he says he doesn't train "moving" OACs ever -- in light of that smashing out as good a set of 5 as I've ever seen is wild. Maybe I should incorporate some of this ISO stuff for OAC/chin training then...not sure. I guess the whole of grip training for climbing is ISO based.

I obvs can't hold an OAC isometric for 5+ seconds yet, but he recommends 2-arm ISOs are good too if you can't do them...

Adarq you're an ISO expert, what do you think?

Edit: main strength protocol he suggests: 1-2 x clusters of 4x5s hangs, near max intensity 30-60s rest inside the cluster

623
The soreness I get from climbing is really interesting. From my normal chinup training the soreness I get, when I get sore from it (which isn't very often), is localised to quite high up on my lats. From climbing the main soreness is rear delts and really low down on my lats, near where they insert at the hip.

reminds me of rings.

you don't do rings too much right? i'm going to get back on my rings soon. they make your abs contract much harder.

I don't do rings anymore, nah. Would be nice to have a setup, but there's no way to make them work with the pullup/dip tower that I have. Would be fun to do some front/back lever stuff and RTO dips, all that's good for helping prevent elbow injury.

624
on the plus side, today i finally got into grad school (17th grade! scholastic level PR!) (also what up, joe, i'm moving to london) and my organization signed a multimillion-dollar grant that will enable us to do some great work.

Sweet. We'll have to go running together when you get here! Where are you going to be studying? I'm guessing SOAS?

625
24-07-19

BW - 71.8

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 3
+27.75 x 3
+16 x 6
+11.75 x 6
+5 x 7
BW x 9

Hangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm -
BW x 7s
+2.5 x 7s
+5 x 5s
+3.75 x 7s
+2.5 x 7s
BW x 9s

One arm bar hangs
BW x 5s
+8 x 10s, 10s, 10s
BW x 20s

Dips
BW x  4
+8 x 3
+16 x 5
+24 x 4
+16 x 5
+8 x 8
BW x 12

SS1A Hollow Body Holds
BW x 20s [stricter form than usual]
+2.5 x 17s [1.25 in hands + 1.25 b/w feet]
+5 x 10s [2.5 in hands + 2.5 in feet]
+2.5 x 15s

SS1B German Hang
BW x 40s, 40s, 40s

Notes

Fun workout. Pulling/gripping stuff all felt pretty weak since I'm not recovered from Friday's OAC negatives yet, let alone from climbing on Monday. Anyway, good to overreach a bit before a holiday.

Managed 10 pullups at the end of climbing session on Monday, but only 9 chinups after today's sesh, tells you about the cumulative fatigue there.

Figured I'd get a benchmark on weighted hangs @ 18mm, even while fatigued. A 7s hang seems to be the gold standard for testing your max, and was mildly disappointed not to get that with +5kg -- didn't quite fail at 5s, but could sense that I wouldn't safely make 7s.

One arm hangs going to be a big addition, I think. Feels really good on lats/shoulder stability -- feels like it will help not just for OAC/chin strength generally, but also for those times when I need my shoulder/arm to be stable while I've reached really far to a hold while climbing. Right hand's grip feels much weaker than left, it wanted to open up a bit towards the end of the hangs which never happened with the left hand.

Dips felt really strong.


626
The soreness I get from climbing is really interesting. From my normal chinup training the soreness I get, when I get sore from it (which isn't very often), is localised to quite high up on my lats. From climbing the main soreness is rear delts and really low down on my lats, near where they insert at the hip.

627
22-07-19

1'45" climbing session

Notes

Decent enough, didn't manage any particularly challenging climbs, but was still quite sore/weak from Saturday's workout. Will try to fit in a lifting sesh on Weds probably.

No issues with left elbow today, surprisingly! Had kind of been feeling it after the one arm negatives session, in the familiar old tendonitis-y way. Nothing major yesterday and then nothing at all today, even when pulling hard on the wall. Mysterious, but I'm not complaining.

628
20-07-19

BW - 71.9kg

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
+32 x 1
+40 x 1  :personal-record: :personal-record:
+43.75 x F [really fast pull to 90* then stuck, this will go pretty soon too]

OAC negatives
full rom x ~3s, ~4.5s  :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record:
bottom half x 2s

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm x 5s
HC@15mm x 8s, 8s, 8s
3FD@15mm x 8s

One arm scap pulls
BW x 3, 3

Dips/KB OHP
BW x 5
+10.5 x 7, 7, 7

Hollow Body Hold
BW x 33s, 33s

Notes

 :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf: :wowthatwasnutswtf:

Maybe a dumb workout, but I had a feeling I was getting close to being able to do some meaningful one arm negatives. Had sort of internally decided I wouldn't bother with that until I'd hit 40kg on chinups first, though, so had to hit that. It moved really well so I decided to go up a bit more, should maybe have been less amibitious because 41.25/42.5 would almost definitely have gone, I think.

The OAC negatives felt fairly in control except for the very end bit of the ROM, so that's why I included the one arm scap pulls later in the workout. Need to get strong just hanging around on one arm and in the bottom bit of the ROM. My left shoulder impingement makes scap pulls feel a little funky if I do them lazily, though, so that's something I need to be careful of.

Deadhangs solid, didn't think I'd get to 3x8s on 15mm so quickly. When back from holiday I'll start weighted hangs on 18mm.

Likely only one more workout before I head on holiday. I'll do more volume than intensity that day, I think. Might be able to get two workouts in, though. Anyway, hopefully 10ish days of rest during which I do some elbow tendonitis repair focused eccentrics will put me in good stead to tackle the OAC properly.

Think if I stay uninjured and able to train this twice a week I'll have an OAC by the end of the year. Other than injury main impediment to this I foresee is that my chinning setup at home is not very convenient for OAC stuff, since it's one of those dip+chin stations. Means there's a lot of stuff very close to you all around you when chinning, so with having to twist a bit on OACs it's not very convenient.

Need to get out and run!! out all day tomorrow, so maybe monday..

stoked about this workout!

629
16-07-19

BW - 71.4kg

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 3, 3, 3

Deadhangs
HC@24mm x 5s
HC@21mm x 5s
HC@18mm x 10s, 10s, 10s
HC@15mm x 5s
3FD@21mm x 13s

Dips
BW x 4, 4
+8 (myo) x 10+3+3+3

Hollow Body
BW x 30s, 30s

Notes

Still a bit sore from Saturday, quite tired generally, but happy to get a decent session in. The 5s hang on 15mm was nice to hit.

Left elbow a little bit icky feeling, so shall be careful going forward. Am travelling for 10 days from next Thursday, so may just take that as more or less total rest and see if elbow feels good on return.

Ankle still not really 100%, which is annoying, but really should go for a run again soon.

630
13-07-19

2 hour climbing sesh, was nice. Ankle held up well.

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