601
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 26, 2020, 01:00:01 pm »
26-01-20
Climbing
~2 hours
Climbing
~2 hours
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602
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 24, 2020, 11:33:50 am »
24/01/2020
Climbing
~75 mins
Short session, felt shit at start but after about 50 mins managed some decent efforts.
Hoping to be feeling nicely recovered for Sunday.
Climbing
~75 mins
Short session, felt shit at start but after about 50 mins managed some decent efforts.
Hoping to be feeling nicely recovered for Sunday.
603
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 22, 2020, 01:05:33 pm »
BW - 69.7
Workout
Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1+1+1, 1+1+1, 1+1
Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 7s, 7s
HC@21mm
BW x 7s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+10.5 x 5s
HC Repeaters
BW x 2 x 6x(3on6off)
Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 8
+24 x 3
+8 x 10
Notes
Nice to have a strong feeling workout, feel like it's been a while.
Rep scheme for the OAC assisteds (i.e. 1+1) is htis: 1+1+1 means RLRLRL, only rest being time to get set up for next rep, 1+1 just RLRL. I guess that's just cluster reps.
Finger still not quite 100%, but definitely feels like it's at the point where it would benefit from some proper loading, rather than just climbing. Thing hangboard is actually good for finger recovery once you're able to do it, since the loading is so controlled (you're not throwing or grabbing suddenly, like you can often be while climbing). Structure for this will be to work up to a moderate-hard 5s hang, then do repeaters after for volume.
Climbing w/ friends sunday, might try to fit in a solo climb on friday.
Workout
Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1+1+1, 1+1+1, 1+1
Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 7s, 7s
HC@21mm
BW x 7s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+10.5 x 5s
HC Repeaters
BW x 2 x 6x(3on6off)
Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 8
+24 x 3
+8 x 10
Notes
Nice to have a strong feeling workout, feel like it's been a while.
Rep scheme for the OAC assisteds (i.e. 1+1) is htis: 1+1+1 means RLRLRL, only rest being time to get set up for next rep, 1+1 just RLRL. I guess that's just cluster reps.
Finger still not quite 100%, but definitely feels like it's at the point where it would benefit from some proper loading, rather than just climbing. Thing hangboard is actually good for finger recovery once you're able to do it, since the loading is so controlled (you're not throwing or grabbing suddenly, like you can often be while climbing). Structure for this will be to work up to a moderate-hard 5s hang, then do repeaters after for volume.
Climbing w/ friends sunday, might try to fit in a solo climb on friday.
604
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 19, 2020, 01:21:00 pm »
19-01-2020
Climbing
~80 mins
Still super sore from Friday actually. Finger still not 100%, but since it doesn't feel like it's getting worse, I'll just keep at things and keep paying attention to it.
Managed some newly set wasps, which is good, not really a strong session. Head not quite in it, for whatever reason. Think probably that I didn't eat enough before going, which I'll try to be better about in future.
Climbing
~80 mins
Still super sore from Friday actually. Finger still not 100%, but since it doesn't feel like it's getting worse, I'll just keep at things and keep paying attention to it.
Managed some newly set wasps, which is good, not really a strong session. Head not quite in it, for whatever reason. Think probably that I didn't eat enough before going, which I'll try to be better about in future.
605
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 17, 2020, 12:32:40 pm »
BW - 69.7
Workout
Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
Assisted OAC
-16 x 1 [felt super easy]
-8 x 1
-3.75 x to 90* on right, 1 on left
ISO Hangs
120* x 5s, 3s
OAC Negative
Didn't time, but did RLRLRL with minimal rest between each rep
Assisted OAC
-8 x 1 + long hold @120* on the eccentric
Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 7, 7
BW x 11
Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8, 8
Notes
Injured ring finger feels basically better, but I managed to get myself not to do any finger/grip training anyway, to really give it time.
Need to work strength in the bottom range of OAC I think, so I liked that last movement with the long hold at the weak point after a rep.
Workout
Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+24 x 1
Assisted OAC
-16 x 1 [felt super easy]
-8 x 1
-3.75 x to 90* on right, 1 on left
ISO Hangs
120* x 5s, 3s
OAC Negative
Didn't time, but did RLRLRL with minimal rest between each rep
Assisted OAC
-8 x 1 + long hold @120* on the eccentric
Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 3
+16 x 7, 7
BW x 11
Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8, 8
Notes
Injured ring finger feels basically better, but I managed to get myself not to do any finger/grip training anyway, to really give it time.
Need to work strength in the bottom range of OAC I think, so I liked that last movement with the long hold at the weak point after a rep.
606
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: a fast and explosive donkey!
« on: January 15, 2020, 12:15:05 pm »
Hah, I was opening this post expecting it to be about huge DOMS from your first workout, and it did not disappoint.
607
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 15, 2020, 08:01:05 am »
Have been feeling a lot less sore after climbing sessions lately, which is great. Especially as the sessions have regularly been pretty long lately, exceeding two hours. Very happy about this, as I was sort of worried that I would just always be mega sore even after moderate sessions and never be able to up volume. Silly, I know, but the soreness just felt like it was going that way. Guess it just took longer to adapt to climbing soreness since the movements are so varied, as compared to running or lifting. Might still aim to keep climbs <2 hours, as they stop being super productive for me after about 90 mins -- power output so much lower that I can't feel go full effort after that point, and the injury rate is defo higher when climbing in a fatigued state. However, climbing is super fun, esp with people, so it's hard to stop!
608
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 14, 2020, 11:33:24 am »
14/01/2020
Climbing
~2.5 hours
Nice sesh. Tried to stay off crimpy things/things that required a lot of weight on right finger, which I think was prudent. Finger slightly more sore at end of session than before it, but still less sore than it was yesterday or on Sunday, so that seems fine to me.
Obviously still quite fatigued from Sunday, and powered out quite quickly this sesh, but still gave a bunch of things a try.
Might train Friday (may not do any hangs if finger still feels tweaky), and then climb Sunday.
Edit: got a brachioradialis cramp during this sesh, which i've never had before. gnarly!
Climbing
~2.5 hours
Nice sesh. Tried to stay off crimpy things/things that required a lot of weight on right finger, which I think was prudent. Finger slightly more sore at end of session than before it, but still less sore than it was yesterday or on Sunday, so that seems fine to me.
Obviously still quite fatigued from Sunday, and powered out quite quickly this sesh, but still gave a bunch of things a try.
Might train Friday (may not do any hangs if finger still feels tweaky), and then climb Sunday.
Edit: got a brachioradialis cramp during this sesh, which i've never had before. gnarly!
609
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 12, 2020, 12:27:37 pm »
12/01/20
Climbing
~2 hours
Did some more technique focussed/drill style warmups for first 45 mins, fun stuff. Climbing one legged to really focus on flags/balance, trying climbs super slow vs super fast to see when each works. Was nice to have some more focus.
Last remnants of cold still there, so felt a bit wretched at points.
Almost managed human flag at end of session, when v fatigued (had done some circuit routes on overhanging walls the really drained endurance + did a good OAC eccentric on each arm). Will try again when fresh at some point, would love to have that skill again.
Mildly tweaked right ring finger between 1st and 2nd knuckle. It's slightly tender to the touch, but doesn't hurt to move it or load it or hang/climb, etc., so hopefully that clears up quickly.
Climbing
~2 hours
Did some more technique focussed/drill style warmups for first 45 mins, fun stuff. Climbing one legged to really focus on flags/balance, trying climbs super slow vs super fast to see when each works. Was nice to have some more focus.
Last remnants of cold still there, so felt a bit wretched at points.
Almost managed human flag at end of session, when v fatigued (had done some circuit routes on overhanging walls the really drained endurance + did a good OAC eccentric on each arm). Will try again when fresh at some point, would love to have that skill again.
Mildly tweaked right ring finger between 1st and 2nd knuckle. It's slightly tender to the touch, but doesn't hurt to move it or load it or hang/climb, etc., so hopefully that clears up quickly.
610
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 09, 2020, 11:45:31 am »
BW - 69.6
09/01/2020
Pullups
BW x 3, 3, 3
Super Wide Grip Arched Back Pullups
BW x 4, 4, 4, 4
Hangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
Repeaters
HC@18mm
BW x 2 x 6x(5 on/5 off) [last two "on" periods of second set a bit dodgy tbh]
3FD@18mm
BW x 6x(4 on/6 off) [don't like this grip as much for long/repeated holds, feel a bit more tweaky fwiw]
Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 6, 6
KB OHP
16 x 6, 6
Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8
Notes
Mostly recovered from cold, but not 100%. Similarly still feeling a little sore/achey, so pulls/hangs wise did a different workout. The super wide grip pullups feel very specific to quite a few climbing movements, so I like those. Did them submaximally, which was a nice change of pace.
Think I will make repeaters the main form of hang training I do rather than more max hangs, just for a cycle or two, work up to being able to manage like 5x(7on/3off) @ 18mm.
Climbing Sunday, hopefully.
09/01/2020
Pullups
BW x 3, 3, 3
Super Wide Grip Arched Back Pullups
BW x 4, 4, 4, 4
Hangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
Repeaters
HC@18mm
BW x 2 x 6x(5 on/5 off) [last two "on" periods of second set a bit dodgy tbh]
3FD@18mm
BW x 6x(4 on/6 off) [don't like this grip as much for long/repeated holds, feel a bit more tweaky fwiw]
Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 6, 6
KB OHP
16 x 6, 6
Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8
Notes
Mostly recovered from cold, but not 100%. Similarly still feeling a little sore/achey, so pulls/hangs wise did a different workout. The super wide grip pullups feel very specific to quite a few climbing movements, so I like those. Did them submaximally, which was a nice change of pace.
Think I will make repeaters the main form of hang training I do rather than more max hangs, just for a cycle or two, work up to being able to manage like 5x(7on/3off) @ 18mm.
Climbing Sunday, hopefully.
611
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 08, 2020, 11:52:03 am »
have a cold, bleh. still sore from sunday actually, probs exacerbated by the cold, but enforced rest probs not too bad an idea anyway
612
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 05, 2020, 01:56:26 pm »
05-01-2020
Climbing
~2.5 hours
Spent mostly trying lots of hard stuff. Tore some skin on left ring finger, but not too bad. Still sore from the Sun/Tue/Thur burst of training, to be honest, so power wasn't really there. Was close-ish on a black (the tier above blue) route -- if I'm fully rested I think I might be able to manage it. Think I checked off another blue, and a few whites/wasps.
Need to work out how to balance OAC/strength training with climbing. Might alternate between 2 climbs / 1 lift and 1 climb / 2 lift weeks until I have the OAC? Anyway, I'm not sure I'll be able to put in a good effort at anything this week until maybe Wednesday (or possibly even Thursday, unless recovery rate picks up), so might only get 2 sessions in this week.
Climbing
~2.5 hours
Spent mostly trying lots of hard stuff. Tore some skin on left ring finger, but not too bad. Still sore from the Sun/Tue/Thur burst of training, to be honest, so power wasn't really there. Was close-ish on a black (the tier above blue) route -- if I'm fully rested I think I might be able to manage it. Think I checked off another blue, and a few whites/wasps.
Need to work out how to balance OAC/strength training with climbing. Might alternate between 2 climbs / 1 lift and 1 climb / 2 lift weeks until I have the OAC? Anyway, I'm not sure I'll be able to put in a good effort at anything this week until maybe Wednesday (or possibly even Thursday, unless recovery rate picks up), so might only get 2 sessions in this week.
613
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: January 02, 2020, 06:00:50 pm »
02-01-2020
Climbing
~2 hours
Mostly trying hard stuff. Was with three friends -- two about my level (maybe a touch better, but we can all attempt similar routes), one a beginner. Really nice bouncing ideas about to try routes off each other/motivating each other to try hard. Never really trained in a group before, but these guys have a good mindset, so it's nice. Going again w/ them on Sunday.
Quite sore from Tuesday/Sunday. Every other day is pretty tough for climbing stuff. Glad to be getting two full rest days before next session -- hoping to be feeling v strong for it.
Did an partial rom OAC starting with arm @ about ~130 degrees on both arms.
[Was actually not quite full effort either, so I'm getting super close to having the skill on lock. Going to be hyped out of my mind when I get it. Will try to get footage. It's likely to happen in a climbing gym rather than at home, I think, since my bar is not very suitable.]
Climbing
~2 hours
Mostly trying hard stuff. Was with three friends -- two about my level (maybe a touch better, but we can all attempt similar routes), one a beginner. Really nice bouncing ideas about to try routes off each other/motivating each other to try hard. Never really trained in a group before, but these guys have a good mindset, so it's nice. Going again w/ them on Sunday.
Quite sore from Tuesday/Sunday. Every other day is pretty tough for climbing stuff. Glad to be getting two full rest days before next session -- hoping to be feeling v strong for it.
Did an partial rom OAC starting with arm @ about ~130 degrees on both arms.
[Was actually not quite full effort either, so I'm getting super close to having the skill on lock. Going to be hyped out of my mind when I get it. Will try to get footage. It's likely to happen in a climbing gym rather than at home, I think, since my bar is not very suitable.]
614
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: December 31, 2019, 11:52:20 am »
31/12/2019
BW - 69.1
Workout
Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+24 x 1
Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1
-5 x 1 [from bottom on left, had to start with slightly bent arm on right]
-16 x 3, 3
Hangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 8s, 8s, 8s
Dips
BW x 5
+16 x 6, 6, 6
Planche Leans
BW x 10s, 10s
Notes
Solid workout. Right arm feels weaker coming out of the bottom on OAC, even if elsewhere strength feels very similar.
That's 2019 done. Not trained as consistently as I would have liked, but it's one of my better years probably. Getting injured sucked, though if that hadn't happened I probably would not be into climbing/so close on OAC, so I can't be too upset about it.
Lighter workout on chins/grip stuff than usual as I'm climbing Thursday.
Weight creeping up slowly. Been eating out a lot and having lots of big family meals, etc. Will try to arrest that, and maybe drift back towards 67.x, so that the cut to <65 isn't too big a thing when I make that move some time in the new year.
Happy New Year everyone!
BW - 69.1
Workout
Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+24 x 1
Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1
-5 x 1 [from bottom on left, had to start with slightly bent arm on right]
-16 x 3, 3
Hangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 8s, 8s, 8s
Dips
BW x 5
+16 x 6, 6, 6
Planche Leans
BW x 10s, 10s
Notes
Solid workout. Right arm feels weaker coming out of the bottom on OAC, even if elsewhere strength feels very similar.
That's 2019 done. Not trained as consistently as I would have liked, but it's one of my better years probably. Getting injured sucked, though if that hadn't happened I probably would not be into climbing/so close on OAC, so I can't be too upset about it.
Lighter workout on chins/grip stuff than usual as I'm climbing Thursday.
Weight creeping up slowly. Been eating out a lot and having lots of big family meals, etc. Will try to arrest that, and maybe drift back towards 67.x, so that the cut to <65 isn't too big a thing when I make that move some time in the new year.
Happy New Year everyone!
615
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: December 29, 2019, 11:07:37 am »
29/12/19
Climbing
~75 mins
Did some Moonboard climbing. It's a cool thing -- standardised set of holds that lots of gyms have. People can set their own routes for you to climb, and they upload them to an app. You connect your phone with bluetooth and you can make the problems light up on the board. Anyway, even the easiest problems on it are a bit hard for me at the minute, and I really need to work on my footwork with it. Just very different to what I'm used too -- very overhang and has small holds. Good for strength, though, so can't wait to get the hang of it.
Saw Max Milne at the gym, think he came like 4th at the last world youth climbing championships. He's on another level, it's nuts.
Climbing
~75 mins
Did some Moonboard climbing. It's a cool thing -- standardised set of holds that lots of gyms have. People can set their own routes for you to climb, and they upload them to an app. You connect your phone with bluetooth and you can make the problems light up on the board. Anyway, even the easiest problems on it are a bit hard for me at the minute, and I really need to work on my footwork with it. Just very different to what I'm used too -- very overhang and has small holds. Good for strength, though, so can't wait to get the hang of it.
Saw Max Milne at the gym, think he came like 4th at the last world youth climbing championships. He's on another level, it's nuts.