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Pics, Videos, & Links / Re: beast
« on: May 31, 2019, 06:46:24 pm »one arm frenchie on a 10mm (~.4 inch) edge
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one arm frenchie on a 10mm (~.4 inch) edge
587
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 31, 2019, 12:25:50 pm »
31-05-19
Workout
SS1A Chinups
BW x 2
+16kg x 4, 4, 4
SS1B Dips
BW x 2
+16kg x 4, 4, 4
SS2A Wide Grip Pullups
BW x 7, 6
SS2B KB OHP
16kg x 8, 8
Deadhang Repeaters
Top ledge x BW x 2 x 6x(5on/5off) [i.e. two sets of 6 clusters of 5 seconds hanging/5 secs rest] -- failed right at end of last hang of second set.
Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 10, 10
Hanging Knee Raise
BW x 7, 6
Notes
Really liked the repeater protocol, even if it is unwieldy to log. Got a real forearm pump going, whereas w/ the 10-15s sets I don't really get that. Figure pump is good -- the repeater thing is more like a bodybuild rep scheme, which I think is good. My fingers are not very "mature" yet, so it's good to just get lots of TUT/practice doing it + build some specific muscle. Can progress them by increasing sets, then changing the timing -- gold standard in climbing community is 7on/3off.
Felt strong overall! I fucking suck at hanging knee raises, lol, must stick with them.
Exams started -- likely no climbing till they're finished (21/6) since it's so time consuming.
Workout
SS1A Chinups
BW x 2
+16kg x 4, 4, 4
SS1B Dips
BW x 2
+16kg x 4, 4, 4
SS2A Wide Grip Pullups
BW x 7, 6
SS2B KB OHP
16kg x 8, 8
Deadhang Repeaters
Top ledge x BW x 2 x 6x(5on/5off) [i.e. two sets of 6 clusters of 5 seconds hanging/5 secs rest] -- failed right at end of last hang of second set.
Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 10, 10
Hanging Knee Raise
BW x 7, 6
Notes
Really liked the repeater protocol, even if it is unwieldy to log. Got a real forearm pump going, whereas w/ the 10-15s sets I don't really get that. Figure pump is good -- the repeater thing is more like a bodybuild rep scheme, which I think is good. My fingers are not very "mature" yet, so it's good to just get lots of TUT/practice doing it + build some specific muscle. Can progress them by increasing sets, then changing the timing -- gold standard in climbing community is 7on/3off.
Felt strong overall! I fucking suck at hanging knee raises, lol, must stick with them.
Exams started -- likely no climbing till they're finished (21/6) since it's so time consuming.
588
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 30, 2019, 05:34:02 am »
30-05-19
Run --
Easy
Total 3.70mi in 35:05 [9:29 average]
Pistol squat
BWx3,3,3
SL Calf Raise
+16x8,8
SL+DL burnout
Notes
Bad sleep, legs felt totally flat. Still, run is worthwhile and this stuff happens.
Thanks! Might play around with it a bit -- probably mostly, as you say, as part of warmup for a session/workout when I start incorporating those again.
Run --
Easy
Total 3.70mi in 35:05 [9:29 average]
Pistol squat
BWx3,3,3
SL Calf Raise
+16x8,8
SL+DL burnout
Notes
Bad sleep, legs felt totally flat. Still, run is worthwhile and this stuff happens.
29-05-19
@adarq -- what do you think of running form drills, like A-skips, B-skips, butt kicks, etc?
my advice might be a bit useless considering i don't do drills and i'm slow.
i don't really understand a/b skips tbh.
butt kicks/leg swings/hurdle mobility, yea that stuff is effective - from a mobility/flexibility/coordination perspective.
as far as more strict running form/mechanics drills go with considerable time spent on it during a session, not much of a fan. seems like a waste to me. it's fine as part of a warmup though. probably most effective when it's done as part of a warmup, to progressively wake those motor patterns up.
2cents!
pc!
Thanks! Might play around with it a bit -- probably mostly, as you say, as part of warmup for a session/workout when I start incorporating those again.
589
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 29, 2019, 09:31:04 am »
29-05-19
Notes
After yesterday's feel good vibes I couldn't really sleep last night and feel beat up.
Rest day. Flat upstairs started leaking into mine, and I've got final exams coming up. Stress abounds. Training may take a slight back foot, but it keeps me feeling good when otherwise stressed so I'm not dropping it.
@adarq -- what do you think of running form drills, like A-skips, B-skips, butt kicks, etc?
Notes
After yesterday's feel good vibes I couldn't really sleep last night and feel beat up.
Rest day. Flat upstairs started leaking into mine, and I've got final exams coming up. Stress abounds. Training may take a slight back foot, but it keeps me feeling good when otherwise stressed so I'm not dropping it.
@adarq -- what do you think of running form drills, like A-skips, B-skips, butt kicks, etc?
590
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 28, 2019, 05:04:09 am »
28-05-19
Run --
Easy
Total 4.64mi in 45:02 [9:42 average]
Threw in six strides towards the end as part of the run
SL Calf Raise off a step
+16 x 8, 7 7
then BW burnout, then DL burnout
Glute circuit
Notes
Another distance 'PR', kept it really easy. Feeling good.
Run --
Easy
Total 4.64mi in 45:02 [9:42 average]
Threw in six strides towards the end as part of the run
SL Calf Raise off a step
+16 x 8, 7 7
then BW burnout, then DL burnout
Glute circuit
Notes
Another distance 'PR', kept it really easy. Feeling good.
591
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 27, 2019, 03:50:27 pm »can you do those single arm chinups now?
imagining your lats/fingers must be way stronger now after being consistent with the climbing stuff.
Nah, haven't been climbing frequently/regularly enough for those sorts of strength gains -- probs lost a bit of strength last couples months tbh. When I was going 3xweek i could do a pretty controlled negative without any pullup specific training, so with lifting + regular climbing I think it'll be really attainable.
592
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 27, 2019, 01:19:08 pm »
27-05-19
Workout ---
SS1A Chinups
BW x 2
+16kg x 3, 3, 3
SS1B Dips
BW x 2, 10, 9, 9
SS2A Wide Pullups
BW x 5, 5
SS2B KB OHP
16kg x 6, 6
Deadhangs on fingerboard
Top ledge x 14s, 14s, 13s [went a little closer to failure than I ought to on this, I think -- maybe next time I do 4 x 12s instead]
Glute activation circuit
Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8, 8
Notes
ROM on the ab wheel not great, but lats and core wiped by that stage of the workout anyway.
Was going to try chins with weights just for a lark not expecting more than a single rep, so nailing 3x3 was pretty exciting!
Workout ---
SS1A Chinups
BW x 2
+16kg x 3, 3, 3
SS1B Dips
BW x 2, 10, 9, 9
SS2A Wide Pullups
BW x 5, 5
SS2B KB OHP
16kg x 6, 6
Deadhangs on fingerboard
Top ledge x 14s, 14s, 13s [went a little closer to failure than I ought to on this, I think -- maybe next time I do 4 x 12s instead]
Glute activation circuit
Kneeling Ab Wheel
BW x 8, 8, 8
Notes
ROM on the ab wheel not great, but lats and core wiped by that stage of the workout anyway.
Was going to try chins with weights just for a lark not expecting more than a single rep, so nailing 3x3 was pretty exciting!
593
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 26, 2019, 11:41:36 am »
26-05-19
Run --
Easy
Total 4.35mi in 39:24 [9:03 average]
Notes
Felt good! Not much to report. Upper body lifting tmrw.
Think this is very marginally the longest distance I've run since starting up again.
Run --
Easy
Total 4.35mi in 39:24 [9:03 average]
Notes
Felt good! Not much to report. Upper body lifting tmrw.
Think this is very marginally the longest distance I've run since starting up again.
594
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 25, 2019, 01:02:53 pm »
25-05-19
Run --
Easy, mostly on grass, 5 or so strides near the end
Total 4.03mi in 36:18 [9:00 average]
SL Calf Raises off a ledge
+16kg x 6, 6
BW x 14
DL burnout set [didn't keep count]
SL Glute circuit --
Adductions
Clams
Bridge
Donkey Kicks
Notes
PT was a bit concerned I had weak calves, so shall make sure do this calf work regularly after runs.
It's fucking hot (to me) -- like 24C (75F). Not used to this, lol.
Run --
Easy, mostly on grass, 5 or so strides near the end
Total 4.03mi in 36:18 [9:00 average]
SL Calf Raises off a ledge
+16kg x 6, 6
BW x 14
DL burnout set [didn't keep count]
SL Glute circuit --
Adductions
Clams
Bridge
Donkey Kicks
Notes
PT was a bit concerned I had weak calves, so shall make sure do this calf work regularly after runs.
It's fucking hot (to me) -- like 24C (75F). Not used to this, lol.
595
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 24, 2019, 11:35:05 am »I have had hip impingement before and what helps is using bands.<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKQI7QBr9Cw" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKQI7QBr9Cw</a>
The physio tried several stretches like this as part of the assessment and none made any difference with internal rotation mobility, which was part of what led him to think it was this particular form of impingement, alas
596
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 24, 2019, 06:36:16 am »
23-05-19
Workout
SS1A - Chinups
BW x 7, 7, 6
SS1B - Dips
BW x 7, 7, 6
SS2A - Wide Grip Pullups
BW x 4, 4
SS2B - KB OHP
16kg x 5, 5
Deadhangs on fingerboard
Top leg x 12s, 12s, 12s
Then at dr's orders messed around with various glute things I could do at home.
BSS
BW x 10, 10 [think this is a no go, alas, get real blockage in the injured hip at the bottom and can feel some sort of grinding, eep]
SL Glute Bridge [shoulders and feet on floor]
+16kg x 10
SL Glute Bridge [shoulders elevated]
BW x 12
SLDL
+16kg x 6 [little awkward doing this with weight in only one hand, haha]
Notes
Set up a chin/dip station in my flat like 10 days ago, which has been nice, so been doing some strength stuff regularly again.
Doc emphasised glute _strength_ rather than just activation, so messed around with some exercises for that. None of these leg exercises really clicked. May well need to get a gym membership again, it seems.
Today (24th) is rest, then light run tomorrow.
Workout
SS1A - Chinups
BW x 7, 7, 6
SS1B - Dips
BW x 7, 7, 6
SS2A - Wide Grip Pullups
BW x 4, 4
SS2B - KB OHP
16kg x 5, 5
Deadhangs on fingerboard
Top leg x 12s, 12s, 12s
Then at dr's orders messed around with various glute things I could do at home.
BSS
BW x 10, 10 [think this is a no go, alas, get real blockage in the injured hip at the bottom and can feel some sort of grinding, eep]
SL Glute Bridge [shoulders and feet on floor]
+16kg x 10
SL Glute Bridge [shoulders elevated]
BW x 12
SLDL
+16kg x 6 [little awkward doing this with weight in only one hand, haha]
Notes
Set up a chin/dip station in my flat like 10 days ago, which has been nice, so been doing some strength stuff regularly again.
Doc emphasised glute _strength_ rather than just activation, so messed around with some exercises for that. None of these leg exercises really clicked. May well need to get a gym membership again, it seems.
Today (24th) is rest, then light run tomorrow.
597
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: May 23, 2019, 12:53:21 pm »
Update and suchlike
Back again!
Kept up climbing a bit, mostly 1xWeek.
Been back running for about a month now, like 15-25km a week all easy. Hip still hurts at times, though. So, back to (new) physio (who has a 2:2x marathon PB!). They're pretty confident I've got femoroacetabular impingement, so I'm waiting to get my hip imaged some time soon. It's just such a weird injury since I have like no tightness/flexibility issues, just this weird internal pain. Was amused when doctor said I should get back to the gym and squat heavy, though.
Back again!
Kept up climbing a bit, mostly 1xWeek.
Been back running for about a month now, like 15-25km a week all easy. Hip still hurts at times, though. So, back to (new) physio (who has a 2:2x marathon PB!). They're pretty confident I've got femoroacetabular impingement, so I'm waiting to get my hip imaged some time soon. It's just such a weird injury since I have like no tightness/flexibility issues, just this weird internal pain. Was amused when doctor said I should get back to the gym and squat heavy, though.
598
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: October 26, 2018, 12:56:44 pm »
Popping back to say that my finger healed up and I've been climbing regularly and loving it. Hip has been decent enough to let me run to the gym every now and then, so I might start logging some light running again soon, but no promises on that front. Might try to get some climbing videos up here if I can take some good ones.
600
Progress Journals & Experimental Routines / Re: warpspeed to the new scenario
« on: August 30, 2018, 06:01:42 am »
Update:
Didn't manage to sort out hip so got discourage and didn't do much exercise for a month or so, then took up climbing. Didn't really know how to log it, but I've been bouldering 2-3 times a week for a while. This week I injured something in my left hand so can't climb for a couple weeks. Stupid body hates me. Seems like lifting is the only thing that doesn't wreck me.
Didn't manage to sort out hip so got discourage and didn't do much exercise for a month or so, then took up climbing. Didn't really know how to log it, but I've been bouldering 2-3 times a week for a while. This week I injured something in my left hand so can't climb for a couple weeks. Stupid body hates me. Seems like lifting is the only thing that doesn't wreck me.