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Messages - Joe

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451
29/12/19

Climbing

~75 mins

Did some Moonboard climbing. It's a cool thing -- standardised set of holds that lots of gyms have. People can set their own routes for you to climb, and they upload them to an app. You connect your phone with bluetooth and you can make the problems light up on the board. Anyway, even the easiest problems on it are a bit hard for me at the minute, and I really need to work on my footwork with it. Just very different to what I'm used too -- very overhang and has small holds. Good for strength, though, so can't wait to get the hang of it.

Saw Max Milne at the gym, think he came like 4th at the last world youth climbing championships. He's on another level, it's nuts.

452
26-12-19

BW - 68.8

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+ 8 x 2
+ 24 x 1

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1
-8 x 1, 1, 1, 1

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 7, 7, 7, 7, 7

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 8, 8, 8

Planche Leans
BW x 10s, 10s

Notes

Think when I'm hitting strong doubles at -8 on assisted OACs I'll be very close.

453
23/12/19

On the plus side, have got my fiancee into strength training, on the down side I forgot the pan I took out the oven would have a hot handle and burned my right hand. Hopefully the latter heals up soon, as it doesn't seem _too_ bad...

454
22/12/19

Climb

~2 hours -- managed a "blue" route at the gym for the first time, and then climbed a second one. They're graded v4-6, fwiw. Very stoked on that. Amusingly my best style of climb isn't really strength based/big move routes, but ones where balance or leg strength are the main thing (the first blue one involved doing almost a pistol squat from an awkward position, so it's good I can still do those).

At the end of the climbing sesh, I did some OAC negatives, for fun. One @ BW on each arm, then two + 4kg on each arm just for larks. Doing weighted negatives is probably not super smart, especially while fatigued, but whatever I wanted to give it a go. Could control pretty well all the way down to the bottom. Have to say it is way nicer doing OAC work on a pullup bar that you have to jump up to, and which has loads of space to its sides, as compared to a cramped chinup tower...

Anyway, super awesome session.

455
18/12/19

Climb ~ 90 mins

90 min climb that sounds fun. at one of those walls?

yeah man, there's a ton of bouldering gyms around london, it's really a growing sport. My sessions are still a little bit incoherent, I don't quite go frequently enough yet to have a thorough sense of how to implement a more structured sort of training. If I want to make proper improvements I need to be going 2-3/week, which I might make an effort to do once I've got the OAC...

456
18/12/19

Climb ~ 90 mins

457
15-12-10

BW - 67.7

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+24 x 1

OAC negatives
-16 x 7s
BW x 10s, 10s, 7s

Assisted OACs
-16 x 2, 2  :personal-record:

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
HC@15mm
BW x 7s, 7s, 7s, 7s, 7s

Dips
BW x 5
+8 x 8, 8, 8

Notes

Still sore from climbing. Still sad from Thursday, fucking apocalyptic result.

Anyway

10s negatives feels like a good milestone. Similarly, I had never hit a double on any OAC thing, no matter how assisted, and that feels big to me, since they were done totally deadhang. Being able to break that deadhang bottom position twice, even with assistance, feels like a strong step in the right direction.

Climb wednesday, may (should?) start running again before then.

458
11-12-19

Climb

Bouldering for 2 hours

Notes

Still sore from Sunday. Forearms will be sore for days from this, I can tell. Was fun. Good to get mind off election stress.

459
08-12-19

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3, 3

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1

Negatives w/ ~1s hold near bottom
BW x 1, 1 

Assisted OAC
-16 x 1, 1, 1, 1

Notes

Back to logging properly, hopefully also back to training properly. Trying to build volume with those heavily assissted reps, need to get used to breaking out of the bottom in a deadhang, etc.

460
well, i fucking did it.

:personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record: :personal-record:

- 5k race in 19:55
splits: 3:55, 4:00, 3:58, 3:58, 4:03

 :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*

ETA: didn't print out a barcode so i won't get an official time, but that's okay. watch time actually took me past the course finish, so official time would have been a few seconds faster. incidentally, mapmyrun has a weirdly big gap between km pace and km elapsed time splits. the latter gives a time of 19:37. dunno why that would be, usually elapsed time is longer, if anything, because it accounts for stopping for road crossings. garmin site says 19:55 as well so let's go with that.

felt the pain especially between 3.5-4.5 km. pace was slowest around 3.6-3.7 but managed to surge enough that when i died in the last few hundred meters i had enough buffer to make it under the 20:00 mark. a little disappointed that i faded so badly and was slowing down at the finish but, under the circumstances -- first race in more than a year, run at all-time PR pace, at 9 AM after <7 hours of sleep -- not THAT disappointed.

woop woop woop! i sense bigger things coming now that the pressure is off a bit!

461
signed up -- and actually made sure it went through this time -- for a race in victoria park on 15 december. joe/gukl, y'all gonna be around/interested? VP isn't as flat as battersea but i know it super well by now so that will hopefully help. 1.5 laps of the upper portion, no street crossing.

I should be able ti do this!

462
Training still nit been very structured, though OAC progress been good. Managed a successful BW OAC from 90 degrees on left, couldn't quite manage that on my right. Want to get back to running and structured training soon though.

Quiz went well, got a bronze medal in the team thing and had a few other top 15 finishes.

damn nice!!

Thanks dude!

463
Happy birthday dude! Backing you to crush it tomorrow  :ibrunning: :headbang:

464
22-11-19

BW - 67.2

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+16 x 2
+32 x 1

OAC Isos @ 90*
-8 x 5s
BW x 5s, 3s, 3s, 3s
-5 x 9s

Assisted OAC
-8 x 1, F [only managed to pull to halfway]

Deadhangs [up to 10.5/13]
HC@24mm
BW x 5s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+13 x 7s, 7s
+10.5 x 7s

Notes

Sort of all I had in the tank for today. Been feeling pretty tired lately, hopefully energy comes back soon.

465
BW - 67.5

Workout

Chins
BW x 3, 3
+16 x 2
+32 x 1

OAC Isos @ 90* [R first, rest 30s, match L]
-8kg x 8s
BW x 4s, 4s
-5kg x 8s, 8s

Deadhang
HC@24mm
BW x 5s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 5s
+8 x 5s
+10.5 x 7s, 7s, 7s

Dips
BW x 5
+ 8 x 10, 10, 10

Planche Lean
BW x 10s, 10

Notes

Good to be working out again!

Felt strong. Satisfying AF to do OAC work like that without feeling like I'm wrecking myself.

Think if I can hit a 10s iso @ 90* with BW I'll be very close to an OAC.

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