Adarq.org

- warm up dreadmill run

- mobilizations

- climbing strength test
-- max weight hang on a 20mm edge x 5s: +51 pounds (130% bw)
-- pull up 1RM: +51 pounds (130% bw)
-- hanging L-sit for time: 30s
-- two-hand hang for time: 1:04
pretty interesting! on the scale that the test uses, each exercise scores a maximum of ten points, with an extra point given at a series of milestones. i scored 4+4+6+2=16. my maximum finger strength is low-middling, my maximum pulling strength is low-middling. i think i could have done a bit more weight for each of those exercises, but the increments are 10% of bw and i was not getting to 140% (i.e., +68.5 at my pre-workout bodyweight of 167). i actually tried +67 for the 20mm hang and got at most 3s. +51 for the pull-up wasn't a grind but it was hard. weights are rounded up because i was using plates so 2.5 lbs is the smallest unit.

continuing on: my core strength is high-middling. i could have kept going on the L-sit but thought 30s gave the maximum points for it (turns out it's actually 20s, which is flat-out easy for me); the next level up for that exercise is a 5s front lever, which i don't think i can do at all. but maybe i should try!

finally, my forearm strength endurance is low. the two-hand hang absolutely sucked, it started hurting within the first 30s and while i might have had a few more seconds in me, there was no way i was making it to the 3-point mark at 1:30.

supposedly, that puts me at about the strength level to do 7b+/5.12c/V6, not accounting for skill. i haven't sport/lead climbed since i was a teenager but given where my bouldering is it seems about right. i don't think i've climbed higher than V5 in the gym but i think i'm strong enough to do a little bit more and at the moment i'm held back by skill. and, apparently, simple endurance. i do get pumped out pretty easily, so i guess that scans. anyway, it's nice to have some data.

- climb x an hour
need to take at least a few days off, my elbows are tired.

- dreadmill run x 20 mins

- climb x 90+ mins
fun session, did a couple of dynamic ones including an orange one that took some figuring with another guy. very satisfying to top out on that one.

ETA:

- partial fingerboard hangs 20mm x 5s, 5s, 5s, 5s
hands were pretty wiped by this point, just doing it to do it really.

i was some old european city because i'd qualified for the world chess championship by winning, against all odds, an online tournament to determine the final qualifier. in the dream this made almost as little sense as it would in real life, like i understood that it was basically as if i'd won a particular 100m dash and thereby qualified for the olympic final. there is about as much distance between me and magnus carlsen as between me and noah lyles in their respective disciplines. anyway, i was excited, but also had no familiarity with chess tournaments and so i kept not knowing where to go. the tournament was being held in a very grand old building, and i found myself in a big room with a bunch of old tv sets scattered around, showing pre-tournament coverage. my parents were there, and we found seats on the floor to watch. humpy koneru, the indian woman who's one of the best female players in the world, was being interviewed. after watching for a few minutes, i realized i should probably be where the players were, but i didn't know where that was. i told my parents to wish me luck and walked around until i found someone who was wearing an earpiece and told her that i was supposed to be in the tournament and asked her to help me find out where to go. she led me through a tunnel to a small staircase with an extremely narrow opening at the top - narrow horizontally, not vertically - that was partly blocked by an old piece of porcelain, like a small claw-foot bathtub. i had to push it aside with my head to get through. then i was in a kind of church-like room, and saw the players sitting together on the pews. i thought to myself, this is crazy. it'll be wild if i even get a single draw against these guys. probably i'll lose every game in 20 moves. but that's okay, it'll be a cool story either way.

then i woke up. it was kind of like the, "oh no, i have an exam that i haven't studied for," dream, but without the pressure or anxiety.

- dreadmill run x 10 mins

- squat 205 x 5,5,5

- DL 225 x 5

arms (elbows, oddly) starting to get sore/achy from the flu, covid, and hep B shots i got earlier. called it a day. ETA: also upper shoulders have been feeling jacked all day, and that weird little discomfort i was having on squats over the summer was back. something a little screwy going on up there independent of the shots.

last night

- run 37:47, 6.00 km
quite sore from the squatting. unsurprisingly, it's worse this morning as i type this (day 2).

last night

- climb x 90 mins
hands rubbed raw, they really revert so fast if i go more than a few days without climbing

- run 38:24, 6.38 km
no pain, hurray.