Adarq.org

17-02-20

BW - 70.0

Workout

Some chins/scap pulls/serratus pushups etc to warm up

Deadhangs
HC@24mm
BW x 3s, 3s, 5s
HC@21mm
BW x 5s
HC@18mm
BW x 1s, 3s
HC@15mm
BW x 3s

Repeaters
HC@18mm
2 x 5 x (6 on / 3 off) -- Pretty close to failure on second set

Pinch block
5 x 5s
8 x 5s
10.5 x 5s
13 x 5s, 5s, 5s

Foot elevated pushbacks [https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLAD357FF6D01777E3&v=neypL5llLxY]
BW x 6, 6

Pushbacks
BW x 8, 8

Notes

This finger injury is so weird to me. I can (half) crimp basically near max with no pain, but open hand is excruciating. Anyway, feels like the open hand part is recovering along too, and it's nice to be still be able to train other things hard (seems the consensus is it is good to keep training other aspects of finger strength while this is recovering, as far as I can tell).

Pinch block fun as heck to train with. Don't really know what the gold standard is, but I guess getting to around 50% BW is a good goal, since that means you could hang off two of them without the benefit of compression, theoretically. (having looked this up, half bw is pretty elite, lmao -- yeah, elite climber Magnus Midbto, who weighs abt my weight, does ~41kg on this on the IronMind one [mine is grip genie -- idk which is easier/harder])

Pushbacks seem to really get my serratus going, and are pretty tough. Need to be doing more scapular strengthening stuff, esp for antagonist things like pushups, since that feels like a weakness and is potentially implicated in the shoulder pain I've been having.

Weight going up slowly -- not really bothered, think it is slow enough + I have been training (hard) enough that it probably means a decent amount of it is muscle. GF says I'm looking thicker so I'll take her word for it. Hoping to reap the benefits when I cut in 4-6 weeks.

Rest tmrw, climb Wednesday probably.

15-02-20

Climbing

~2 hours

Phew! If I'm careful with my route selection I can basically avoid pain. Made a silly choice near the end and felt some pain, but it subsided quickly, so I'm feeling positive. Will see how everything is tomorrow -- possibly it was just being warm meant I couldn't feel pain, but I'm optimistic.

Did some OAC negatives/lock off @ 90/120* during the session, can hold those lock off for 5+ seconds now solidly, which is nice.

10-02-2020

Doing rehab for finger + shoulder prehab ()

Right hand is fucked up 

So annoyed about this, didn't really do anything wrong in the session, didn't push my climbing too hard, just had one unlucky slip at the end and made everything way worse.

On the up side, I have no soreness from yesterday's session, despite OAC negatives. However, given the state of my right hand I'm not sure when next I'll be able to hang from a pullup bar, let alone hang one handed on that hand...

05-02-20

Finger feels like 85% recovered, should be enough for a light climb + OAC training sesh tmrw. Frustrating to keep getting these little niggles, but hopefully they'll just clear up with more time spent climbing/adapting + some specific strength work.

My broad plan is a 6 week cycle 2xweek OAC negative work + maybe one other climbing sesh, then assess. Likely at that point I start a cut and aim to get to 65kg or lower

02-02-2020

Climbing

~2 hours total

After ~45 mins (about when I was fully warmed up and had started trying harder routes) I popped the training room to do the following:

Eccentric OAC
BW x RLRL, RLRL, RL, RL

Then finished with climbing for the rest of the session.

Notes

OAC eccentrics felt strong. Just need to be doing them more regularly, maybe 2xweek.  Didn't set up a timer for them or anything, but they were fully under control, bottom no quicker than top, etc., so that's good. Will try to progress them to doing like 4xRLRLRL, at which point I should be nice and strong.

Shoulder feels ok.

30-01-20

Shoulder again feeling a little better. Am optimistic that it'll fully recovery on its own, as long as I'm not stupid. Might leave off doing too much OAC stuff until I'm fully confident in that claim though. Perhaps isos or concentrics will be fine, but have to be v careful in lowering to full extension.

Surprisingly my lats are quite sore today! Yesterday's pullups were far from maximal, and not too much volume, so I'm a little confused by that! Would have thought they're adapted enough to not be sore from a light session given they're pretty similar to the movement in climbing, but I guess that palms away form is novel enough to induce some soreness. Wild. Guess I should make them my go-to pullup movement rather than chins going forward.

Serratus also sore. Shall stick with pushups -- seems like they can only be good for shoulder stability. Maybe I can nab a cheap weight vest somewhere -- would also be helpful for progressing ab wheel, if I ever get back to doing that consistently.