Adarq.org

13-03-20

BW - 68.7

Workout

Pullups
BW x 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 1
+32 x 1
+40 x 1 [pretty easy!]
+24 x 5, 5, 5 [fairly hard, not quite maximal, only chalked up for the last set, and that made things a lot easier]

Pinch Block Holds
8 x 5s, 5s
10.5 x 5s
13 x 3s

Pinch Block Reps
13 x 5, 5
10.5 x 12, 12

some open hand hangs @ 24mm to get warmed up

3FD Rehab Hangs @ 24mm
30-33kg of assistance x 15s, 15s, 15s, 15s

SS1A Partial Rom Standing Ab Wheel
BW x 5, 5, 5

SS1B Pushbacks
BW x 15, 15, 15

Notes

Do pullups thumbless b/c that's more comfortable, plus I guess marginally more specific to climbing.

5 reps on pinch block was pretty hard, but just about managable. I really love using it, and it feels like it really helps my climbing -- simultaneously help out with pinches and open hand things and slopers, all with one exercise. And it's fun. Further benefit, distinct from the hangboard, is that since I have to generate the force to lift the thing from the ground, it feels like it trains a different aspect of _pulling hard_ or really aggressively flexing hand/finger muscles -- key for those desperate holds you sometimes have to do climbing

ROM on ab wheel actually pretty good, abs really got a boost from climbing steep overhangs at the new gym.

Nice to have some pretty concrete goals I can work on in my home training: pullups keep pushing that weight up, pinch block get to reps at 16kg, ab wheel complete full rollouts, pushbacks start feeling strong on foot elevated, rehab get ability to hang 3fd without pain again, then start loading. if i accomplish all of these then i'll be in a rad spot when i feel comfortable going climbing again.

smart. this is one advantage of running: it's solitary and outdoors.

thanks for sure, might work some running in depending how restless i get, esp as weather improves. the day we go climbing together will hopefully be a cause for celebration, though

11/03/20

Climbing

~90 minutes

Still felt fatigued/not fully recovered from the Sunday-Monday back-to-back, but this was a fucking top session. Sent 3 blues (had only managed 1 at this gym before) and reached the last move on another one. Some black routes feel within range, too, esp once I can three finger on my right hand (some small/narrow holds sort of require that).

BW - 69.5

Workout

Pullups
BW x 3, 3, 3
+8 x 2
+16 x 2
+24 x 1
+32 x 2, 2, 2
+24 x 3 [wider grip]

Pinch Block
8 x 3s, 3s
10.5 x 3s
13 x 3s

Pinch Block Reps
13 x 4, 4, 4
10.5 x 12

3FD Rehab Hangs
~37kg assist x 15s, 15s, 15s

Pushbacks
BW x 10

Foot Elevated Pushbacks
BW x 8, 8

Notes

When I did 4x2 @ +32 (@ 68kg) I was able to do a ~47kg chinup, and I defo had a 4th set of 2 in me at 32 on these today, so wonder what I can hit on a pullup. Much prefer doing pullups on the setup at my gym than at home, skinny bar + being forced to grip either narrower or wider than my preferred spot because of the structure of my bar. I whine about this too much, tbf, but it is annoying.

Lots of progress on the rehab hangs as compared to last time, which is nice! Still a long way to go to being able to just hang without pain at bodyweight this way, but going from 45 to 37 assist in a week makes me feel optimistic!

Left feels a lot more solid on pinches, which i guess is not surprsing.

BW - 70.2

Workout

Pushups
BW x 10, 10

Pushbacks
BW x 20, 18

Pullups
BW x 5, 5, 5, 5 [easy, focussing on pulling to chest, controlled lowering and deadhangs + scap pull/scap control]

Pinch block holds
8 x 5s, 5s
13 x 7s

Pinch block reps
13 x 3, 3, 3 [feels way harder to do three reps of a weight than to hold it for 7s, guess the hard part is having the tension to load initially, rather than to hold it -- makes sense, it's a bit like training RFD/contact strength, I guess. Can't even pick up 16kg yet, but probably possible once i can do 13x6 or so, i think]

3FD Rehab Hangs
~43kg assistance x 15s, 15s, 15s [set scale up under hangboard and stood on it -- assistance listed is the weight shown on the scale]

A test it never occurred to me to do to see how recovery is coming along, but which I now did.

Core idea: the worst part of the injury is my ability to three finger drag (hang from three fingers) without pain. So I set up my scale underneath my hangboard to see how much weight I could load before pain began. Was about 35kg, so half BW. Got to progress this number.

A common protocol for pulley injuries is to gradually load them to just before the painful load, but since this is a lumbrical/muscle injury rather than a tendon one, I'm less sure of that protocol. Any thoughts about recovering muscle strains?  In any case, if I do pursue that method, I guessed I'd be aiming at like 3-5x10-30s at non-painful load, checking how much I'm weighting with the scale each week. Edit: skimming some stuff suggests progressive loading is used/useful for muscle strain recovery too, so guess i will be doing this.

weak hands are weak.

come climb

27-02-20

Climbing

~90 mins

Finger feeling a little better yet again. Getting psyched for when I can give full efforts with it again.

21-02-20

Rehab workout

pinch
8kg x 30s, 30s, 30s, 30s

Hang on fingerboard jug
BW x 30s, 30s, 30s

+ rice bucket, etc